I’d like to start this by saying that I am so over New York Fashion Week and, as I write this, we are only halfway through. I’ve had this conversation with a few people already and I have come to the realization that fashion week, now more than ever, is just a spectacle and not at all reflective of the fashion industry as a whole. I am disappointed to see coverage on the shows focusing on the models or the afterparties instead of the clothes (often with zero mention of the actual designs), coming from actual media brands and magazines all the way down to microinfluencers on social media. It is now totally clear that fashion week is just a marketing vehicle, but who for? In my opinion, fashion week is about models and influencers building their brands even more than actual fashion brands. It is all about what shows people have attended (and sat front row, and snapchatted, and Instagrammed) and what model is going to be the newest socialite with the most followers online. It’s really sad to be honest. However, I think that actual buyers and people who attend the shows because it is their business to be there are still, obviously, working hard and are detached from the whole circus of it – Man Repeller actually published a good piece about the Alexander Wang show which I felt summed this up, sort of. This New York Times article was a fantastic take on this topic too. Anyway, I’m going to follow a similar format as I did last season and post images of looks that I particularly loved and also link you to some others. Let fashion month commence!
In New Condé Nast Partnership, Farfetch Buys — and Shutters — Style.com – Fashionista.com
The new iteration of Style.com was a short-lived pursuit. Relaunched in September 2016, the Style.com we all knew and loved had disappeared and in its place popped up a curated e-commerce site, like a shoppable magazine edit. Just days ago, model turned jeweler Magdalena Frackowiak posted three screenshots from the website on her Instagram. They had just featured her products along with a mini-review of her line. Come Tuesday and Style.com is gone. Type it in your browser and you will be automatically redirected to FarFetch. It all happened extremely quickly yet it is not entirely surprising. I remember when the original Style.com closed, how disappointing that was given that it used to be the go-to source for all runway shows. Vogue then launched VogueRunway.com which actually just turned into Vogue.com/Fashion-Shows (not a separate site as initially discussed). Then when Style.com relaunched as the e-commerce site, things were a little quiet. It didn’t seem to generate the buzz that Conde Nast had hoped for. It makes sense now that FarFetch have acquired the site. In terms of the online landscape, there really are two major players now and FarFetch are one of them (along with the Yoox Net-a-Porter group). I have written about FarFetch in detail before on my post about the Italian Vogue e-commerce cover because as I said before I think it is the future of fashion. This new acquisition for the company just proves that things are only getting bigger and better. I plan to follow FarFetch’s progress closely.
Ok let me start this off by saying that this was the first time I’d ever visited Marie Claire’s website and I was so surprised at how beautiful it looked. Really, it’s the most stunning website that I urge you to check out. Secondly, this article was eyeopening to me. First of all, did you know that some influencers do not write any of their content that goes out? That means Instagram captions (even for non-sponsored posts), tweets, anything is all written by a ghostwriter. It seems so crazy to me because people look at influencers as relatable people. We are meant to be getting a glimpse into their real life and their personalities. To find out that there are some out there whose online persona is completely crafted by someone who they haven’t even met (in some cases) is a little bit strange and off-putting to me. Fortunately I am not someone who is heavily swayed by influencers. I don’t buy things because they tell me to. I don’t wear things because they wear them. I don’t think things because they say them. However, some people do, especially younger people. Influencers who are geared towards the teenage set are particularly dangerous in my eyes as the teens will be latching onto something that is entirely fake. It would suck to find out that your idol is, in fact, nothing like how they appear to be online. That used to be the case for celebrities (hence the phrase “never meet your idol”) but for influencers the whole idea was that they were real people. The article goes further into depth about what the ghostwriters do and I encourage you to read it yourself. Transparency is key, people!
“Miami’s best concept store is opening a six floor location in NYC” – CR Fashion Book
The Webster, South Beach’s luxury concept store perhaps akin to the likes of Maxfield, is opening a new location in SoHo towards the end of the year, and I, for one, am excited to visit. I have heard only good things about the South Beach location, from the selection of designers and merchandise carried (supposedly very cool) to the visuals in-store so I am interested to see how the new store looks. Judging by the write-up in CR Fashion Book plus on various other media outlets, it will be quite the store both architecturally and in terms of visual merchandising. Fashionista.com did an interview with the owner of the boutique, Laure Heriard Dubreuil, and in one of her responses she discussed her merchandising technique of mixing the brands together to curate outfit looks for customers. I love that idea because sometimes it is boring seeing all the brands grouped together and it is easy to bypass cool items because you are not interested in the brand. The store is already generating buzz and an opening date has not even been announced. As far as I can tell, it will be a welcome addition to the SoHo retail landscape.
I’ve been really terrible at blogging for the entire month of February. I have a zillion drafts saved with various titles about events that happened throughout the month, yet I have no desire to write about them now because it’s just too late. Like, aren’t we all over New York Fashion Week? Hasn’t the shock of Riccardo Tisci’s Givenchy departure worn off? I feel like instead of typing out my thoughts on these events, I’ve discussed them in person, either with my friends or in school. That being said, I’ve kept a long-running note on my Macbook with various observations that I’ve made throughout fashion month so instead of breaking my posts up by city, I’m just going to put it all in one post in a rambling post. I hope you enjoy!
Ok, so the exciting thing about New York Fashion Week was the fact that Raf Simons was back. Even though he had only been gone for such a small period of time, it seemed like an eternity in fashion when everything moves so quickly and a few seasons feels like 4 years. I personally liked his debut ready-to-wear collection for Calvin Klein, especially the transparent plastic over the trench coats (reminded me of the Doom Generation which I was obsessed with when I was fifteen) and the heavy focus on outerwear. However, I can see that the #mycalvins will be a thing of the past and that sucks but the Moonlight cast underwear ads are incredible so we’re all good. Alexander Wang was another show that I really liked, especially these two looks (a and b), and the venue was cool. The long leather coats at The Row were super cool. I loved this suit at Jason Wu. A theme I noticed throughout NYFW was grey blazers, in some form of check. This made me mad at myself because I used to own the most perfect vintage Ralph Lauren one a few years ago but I gave it to charity because I rarely wore it. Big mistake. I normally love Area’s lookbooks but they moved to a show format this season which was kind of sad actually but it does show growth for the brand. I’m obsessed with this coat from Proenza Schouler. Anything that combines vinyl-looking leather and fur/shearing, I’m onboard with. Narciso Rodriguez’s collection was very much how I wish I dressed on a day-to-day basis.
By the time London Fashion Week rolled around, I was in LA. During that time I barely touched my phone for social media or email purposes. I just used the Maps app for directions.
I didn’t like the runway at Gucci because I think it was too distracting for the actual showgoers, plus there were too many looks. The standout ones were a, b, and c – I’m so happy about the return of snakeskin boots. The colors at Max Mara were perfect. Honestly everything about that show just looked so good. The styling was sublime. I was so into the red boots at Fendi. I want a pair already, it was an instant sale (if only I could afford them). This coat at Prada is to die for. The dry-cleaning theme at Moschino was hilarious, they even put a wire hanger in the model’s hair.
This dress at Jacquemus is so beautiful, it reminded me of vintage Chanel with a twist. This brand has the best IG. I love the new Saint Laurent, even if it’s just 80s redone. I’m so desperate for a pair of the logo earrings. From this collection I loved the sparkling mini dresses (a and b), the latter of the pair being a better version of the one I wore on New Years. Surprisingly I found myself liking a lot of looks at Off-White. I say surprisingly because although I like Virgil Abloh and admire his work ethic, I have never been the biggest fan of his clothes. However, this collection was interesting to me, even though it was entitled “Nothing New” I thought it was different for him. I want to wear this look, but I also like a, b, and c. This coat at Mugler was 80s power shoulders to the max and I thought it was so fun. Balenciaga was actually interesting to me. Normally I’m not a big fan of Demna Gvasalia but this collection was great, particularly a, b, and c. It was sad to see a Givenchy collection without Riccardo Tisci (I wasn’t ready for his departure to be a real thing) but I do like how they directly referenced pieces from his tenure. It was a nice tribute. Louis Vuitton rented out the Louvre for the show and honestly this is an instance where the design standard matched the location. I loved it. In particular, a and b.
It is fashion month again, can you believe it? I am constantly filled with the desire for something new, a thirst that cannot be quenched, and the speed of fashion doesn’t help this. It has me feeling the need to buy new things all the time. The new season has rolled around so quickly this time. I think because there has been so much talk of changing the fashion calendar with a few designers not even showing this season. Instead they are choosing to wait until September to show their fall collections, in time for them going into stores. I shared a post about this concept a couple of months ago when it was just theoretical but now the changes are beginning to take shape. I can only wonder how much longer the current system will last, if more designers will shift to the new way, and how the new way will work out for retailers and press alike.
As always, New York comes first. It has got me very excited to think that next time it is Fashion Week in the city, I’ll also be there. Maybe I can volunteer? Or just awkwardly hang around outside the venue? What do people even do about that? Anyway, I’ll continue writing about this season in the format that I’ve been doing for a few years now (see the Fashion Week tab in the header). I’ll try not to discuss the things that I didn’t like because that seems like a waste of time. Let us begin!
I am on such an Alexander Wang high at the moment, it’s getting dangerous. All I want to do is buy his clothes. I want to be a part of the badass, downtown cool that I am so far from. This season was no different. Firstly, I will be getting myself a pair of the slogan tights, no matter what. I found them fun. I also smirked both when I seen the mohair coat with the marijuana leaf print and also the pole dancer motif. Only Alexander Wang could show these and make people actually want them. Moving on from that, his edgier take on the classic tweed suit, made famous by Chanel, was actually fun. The leather and metal hardware added a fun twist, and this combined with the shorter skirt length made it something that a young person would actually want to wear. My favourite look of the entire show, however, was the pleated black dress with the leather accents. Also, honourable mention to the studded booties. I thought I was so done with studs but I found myself in love with these.
Sally is my favourite young designer. Her brand is so young – Spring 2013 was her first season – yet I think she knows exactly who her woman is and what they’d like to wear. There’s a touch of fur, some cosy knitwear, and some draped, often asymmetrical skirts and dresses. And it’s fairly expensive. Sally makes the kind of clothes that I want to wear. I feel that you could create an entire wardrobe with her clothes, a little bit of Rosetta Getty, and some more pieces from The Row – a cosy, capsule wardrobe. I think these brands have slightly similar aesthetics and would work well with each other. As usual, I am wild for the fur sweaters: surely they’re the best-selling piece. I also loved the added glitz in this collection and the feathers. I am so for feathers.
If there’s a designer who I can count on to make clothes that I love every single season, it’s Joseph Altuzarra. I think his brand is my current favourite because in each collection I see so many pieces that I want to incorporate into my own wardrobe. I find his way of dressing women inspiring. Where Alexander Wang plays up to my cool fantasies, Altuzarra plays up to my sexy fantasies. I’m neither of the aforementioned adjectives but I feel like if I wore Altuzarra I wouldn’t feel like a fraud. In fact, maybe it would give me the confidence to be sexy. I think a skirt of his needs to be my next big purchase. As usual, in this collection there were slits-a-plenty, with thigh bearing skirts and dresses. However, the skin was contrasted with cosy knits and shearling jackets. The collection was more pattern-heavy than I expected but I think the more delicate ones worked best, like the tiny little flowers on this coat. I’m not a fan of paisley but I think it worked in many pieces here, especially since Lou Lou de la Falaise was cited as an inspiration – the print is synonymous with her in my mind.
Trust Mary Kate and Ashley to turn out yet another brilliant collection for their brand. They have transcended the label of celebrity designer because they have been consistently good at making truly luxurious clothes that people want to buy, and believe me their pieces would be considered a splurge for most of us. I wonder exactly how much involvement they have with the brand on a day-to-day basis, especially as they have Elizabeth + James as well, a brand known for its fun furs. I loved the minimalism in this collection as it shows that it doesn’t have to mean boring. There were discreet but interesting details on many of the pieces, like the fact that from afar this dress looked like it was fringed but it was in fact ruched. I’m also obsessed with this coat, a classic piece worth the investment.
And the rest…
Christian Siriano had some nice dresses and braided knitwear. I actually really liked the one-sleeved dresses which surprised me because I’ve always thought that style was so ridiculous.
ZAC Zac Posen had a fun deer print which I loved, although there wasn’t much of it in the lookbook. However, he showed more of the collection on his Instagram, along with debuting a I heart Zac sweater which I would like, I must admit. For his mainline show, Zac Posen gained a lot of attention for his stellar, diverse model casting. It is sad that it has to be a big talking point when a designer actually used models of colour in their show, however. In this collection there were very few pieces that I’d have identified as traditional Zac Posen – where’s the ball gowns? – but I adored the lighter-weight, black dresses with many layers like these ones (a, b, c).
I found myself really liking Brock Collection again, although I’d like to know more about the brand. What is their price point? Who is their customer? I did like the whole deformalisation of fur because I love incorportating fur into casual looks. For example, I loved this furry, almost dressing gown paired with denim. Anything belted and cosy looking is for me.
Gigi Hadid looked really good in the opening look at Tommy Hilfiger.
Both Protagonist and Trademark are making clothes which I’d actually want to wear and buy. This is one of my favourite things about New York designers, they don’t shy away from the everyday.
I loved the almost liquid slips and the ruffles at Cushnie et Ochs, a brand that I do look forward to seeing each season. Although satin is a fabric they often use, I found that it didn’t photograph brilliantly this season, looking slightly too shiny in some shots. I think some of the blouses will look better in person. I’m predicting a red carpet moment for this gown and this one too. Edit – I wrote this before Selena wore the dress to the Grammy’s (and kiiiiilled it!).
Jason Wu produced another quintessential Jason Wu collection: beautiful and expensive looking clothes for ladies with beautiful and expensive taste. I loved the looks with the feathers, so glam. I’ll take this dress for the evening and then combine these two (i & ii) for an elevated everyday look.
Ryan Roche made another collection of beautiful, cosy knitwear – her speciality – which are perfect for the chilly temperatures in New York.
This Marchesa dress is screaming to be worn at the Oscars.
I loved the curves at Boss, particularly in this look.
The CFDA are considering a radical new show schedule for New York Fashion Week with lots of ideas being thrown around. The general idea is, given how interested consumers now are in this digital age, that the wait time between garments being shown on the runway to them actually hitting the stores is too long. The most hyped items are often forgotten about by the time the next fashion week comes around because the famous bloggers and celebrities somehow managed to get their hands on them already and by the time they hit the stores it is too late. A wholly revised schedule has been proposed, one that should benefit the consumers mainly but also the retailers. It would mean that fast fashion stores would have less time to turn out a copy, meaning people would either have to wait until it trickled down or just buy full-price. I think it would have huge repercussions on the fashion industry as we know it.
I actually think the reforms being discussed sound very good. The idea of showing clothes for the upcoming season when the season is about to start makes a lot of sense. This Fashionista article does a good job of weighing up the pros and the cons of the proposal. I firmly believe it is a positive idea for the actual fashion industry in general; what do you think?
Now that fashion month has been over for a while, I’ve had time to reflect on everything and really form opinions. You know, taking a second look at things with fresh eyes really helps. Often something that I loved first time around doesn’t move me upon a second glance, and on the contrary, the opposite can happen and something that I hated, I now love, or like at least. So I’ve decided to do this the easy way, and the way that I’m guessing most of you would prefer, and keep it short and sweet. I figure there’s no point in rehashing out the stuff that I, and many other people, have already said, so this is probably going to be in list form. I’m doing 4 categories of “bests” with 4 picks in each of them, hence the title of this post. And just so you know, if I’m picking the best out of each four fashion weeks, Milan was hands-down my favourite. But that was no surprise.
BEST SHOW IN EACH CITY
Since when I’m doing my reviews, I pick out 5 shows that I like the best, it is easy to narrow down from that five into just one. What I did find was that I couldn’t actually remember any shows from London. When I was brainstorming this post, I wrote Altuzarra for New York and MaxMara for Milan, but nothing for London. I actually had to go back and look at my own post. That’s not so good and I think confirms that London’s fashion just doesn’t stick in my mind. That’s not to say that they are short of talented designers, because that’s not true, they just don’t stay in my brain the same way designers from the other cities did. Anyhow, I’m veering off topic.
- NEW YORK – Altuzarra, but Jason Wu comes a very close second
- LONDON – Tom Ford (is this cheating?)
- MILAN – MaxMara
- PARIS – Givenchy