Fashion, Weekly Words

Weekly Words: June 10th 2017

“The Kendall Jenner Effect: How Long Can It Last?” – Business of Fashion

officially joining the adidas fam! @adidasoriginals #adidasAmbassador #adidasOriginals

A post shared by Kendall (@kendalljenner) on

In a subscribers only article, the BOF team discussed the Kendall Jenner effect, a combination of sales and social media dominance, and how long it will actually last for. The reasoning behind this was the slew of poor publicity which Jenner has been at the forefront of in the past month or so. It was just announced last week that Jenner was the new face of Adidas, the sportswear giant where brother-in-law Kanye West has a hugely successful line. This announcement was met with significant backlash from the press and social media alike with complaints that yet another model (like Gigi & Bella Hadid, for Reebok and Nike respectively) was the face of a sportswear brand instead of using actual athletes. Of course, this was not Jenner’s fault but it seems that she was the straw which broke the camel’s back. The article goes on to compare Jenner to Pierre Cardin, in reference to perhaps diluting her brand or spreading it too thin by taking on so many partnerships – the point being Cardin ruined his brand value and Jenner risks doing the same.

“Yoox Net-a-Porter Group is going completely fur-free” – Fashionista

Looks to try in this cold af weather, Grace Jones for @fendi (1986) | #GlamourGoals #18

A post shared by Eve Gardiner (@bigbabyeve) on

In a surprising move, the Yoox Net-a-Porter group, in an effort to increase sustainability on a major scale, have decided to go completely fur-free, removing all animal fur based products from their outlet site The Outnet. Perhaps I’m finding this move more shocking than it actually is but I don’t understand the mindset behind removing all fur based products from a business standpoint, given that they are a luxury group and fur is the utmost of all luxury products. Even nowadays when people are trending vegan, fur accessories continue to remain popular, even in the form of little pom-pom bag chains. At the end of the article, the writer questions if Farfetch, their largest competitor and the site where NAP founder Natalie Massenet now works, will also go fur-free, citing it as a tempting move to follow. In my mind, this would make Farfetch do the opposite, instead stepping up their fur offering in an attempt to gain all of the sales and customers that Yoox/Net-a-Porter may have lost.

“In Hong Kong to launch second store, Virgil Abloh, Off-White founder and Kanye collaborator, opens up” – South China Morning Post

SS14 Off-White in an editorial for Uname / Unameid.com

The article I’ve linked above was a lengthy discussion with Virgil Abloh about his career and his brand. The most exciting takeaway from the piece was that Abloh’s is getting his own retrospective exhibition of his work in Chicago, at the Museum of Contemporary Art. Due to open in 2019, the exhibition will house pieces from Off-White and the other projects which he has worked on throughout his career. Instead of just looking at the clothing, the exhibition will focus on the broader societal context and millennial culture. The whole idea behind this exhibition sounds really cool and I’d like to go and visit the exhibition when it opens. Virgil’s success over the past 18 months to two years is inspirational. This is a man who has been toiling away for years and finally getting the kudos he deserves.

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Essays, Fashion, Opinion

The Future of Retail

In the past few weeks I have been reading a lot about the ever-evolving retail landscape. I find it very interesting, especially because I plan to enter the apparel industry in a few years time. Our notions of what we want and expect out of a shopping experience have changed dramatically. Now it is not enough for a brand just to have brick-and-mortar locations, an online presence is a necessity. But is online all that brands need to provide, or is there something more? Fashion companies need to change with the times in order to remain in business, essentially. But how do they do that, going forward?

I find it funny that online has taken over, or that we perceive it to. I learned in one of my classes that only 10% of all transactions in the USA occur online and around 30-40% in China. I’d say that my generation would think that more transactions occur online because we have embraced e-tailing in such a full-on way. I have friends who shop almost exclusively at online stores because it’s easier, there’s a bigger selection, it’s cheaper – a myriad of reasons, really. Some shoppers are still reluctant to make the shift to the internet, but a large chunk of people will at least browse.

There are still some brands who have a very small online presence. For example, Chanel sells just sunglasses, skincare, fragrance, and beauty on their e-store. Pieces from collections, such as shoes and bags, are available to view online but not to purchase – that can only be done in stores. For such a high end brand, it is important to keep exclusivity. In a major way, the internet has democratized fashion. For younger brands like Altuzarra, based in New York City, it doesn’t make too much sense having to worry about e-commerce on their own website. Instead you can shop these type of brands online on sites like Net-a-porter and Matches Fashion. Altuzarra’s e-store actually links you through to Matches to complete your transaction. That’s a true partnership.

I do a lot of my browsing online, especially for brands that I wouldn’t normally have access to. I love e-tailers like Net-a-porter where I can see all of the items that I loved going down the runway in an as close to real life situation as I can. I also love online boutiques like FRWD by Elyse Walker. It has a cool, tightly edited selection of merchandise on offer and I can visualize how the store would be in my head without having to leave my bed. Now that I live in New York I can go to the high end department stores and browse in person but before I came here online was my only platform. This is what I mean when I say the internet has democratized fashion. It has made it accessible. Luxury is no longer out of reach. Consumers no longer feel intimidated by the luxury stores because they can pre-pick what they’re going to buy online (and find out the price so there’s none of the awkward “if you have to ask, you can’t afford it” drama) and go in store to have the experience of shopping there. That’s what shopping is about, an experience. If retailers can’t provide that then they will lose out to online stores eventually.

Barneys New York

It has also been speculated that the internet is going to kill the department store. They are not the giants that they once were, both in the UK and the US. Macy’s is known for being constantly on sale. It’s a store where you’d be foolish to pay full price. In fact, this can be damaging for some of the brands that are stocked in store (like Michael Kors, for example, who has been hit by discounts offered by department stores fairly badly in the past few years). Similarly, Debenhams in the UK runs promotions almost weekly. It is just a way to get shoppers into the stores. However, there are some things that can be done by the department stores to draw shoppers back in without having to slash prices.

I was in Macy’s at Herald Square a few months ago. What I learned from my visit was never go too far up in the building because the clothes get dowdier the higher you go. If you start from the basement, the “teen” or “junior” area (which is where the Levi’s are kept), you will experience fitting rooms with adjustable lighting on the mirrors. You can see how the outfit would look in various settings. I found that a very cool feature. I’ve heard of other stores doing a “smart” mirror where you digitally try on clothing instead of actually having to go into the fitting rooms and do it yourself. I’m not sure that I like that idea as I think you can only get a true representation of how things fit once they’re on your body, although I do realize that nobody ever, ever, ever looks good in fitting room lighting. Ever. Experience is key; trial new technology.

I think the area that department stores need to work on is becoming speciality stores, like Barneys or Bergdorfs instead of “department stores” in the traditional sense. I think the two aforementioned are safe, regardless of what happens to normal department stores. Young people aren’t interested in shopping at the same store as their grandparents generally (although my granny shops at Free People…) so I think more needs to be done to modernize the stores and make them more youthful. I found that Macy’s had a stark contrast between what they classed as “juniors” fashion and what they had in the regular womenswear area. It was almost like the kids were too young and the adults were too old. There didn’t seem to be a good spot for women between 18 and 30, and I think that is a key demographic in terms of spending power, disposable income, and actual interest in fashion and keeping up to date with trends. The way to find out about how young people actually dress is through social media. It is an as-true-as-can-be reflection of our times, although what you see on there is often an edited reality. Alternatively, pay attention to what young people on the street actually wear. Chances are you’ll think that the teens are older than their calendar age, mainly because we all dress more maturely than teens did a decade ago. The time of teenage high school movies is over, although sometimes stores reflect these dated ideals in their choices. My main suggestion would be know your customer and ensure your research is current.

If it is more convenient to shop on my phone whilst lying in bed at 2am, I’ll do it. But if I know there’s a great store where the employees are friendly, the visuals are appealing, and the experience is worthwhile, I’ll sure as hell get out of my bed in the morning and march along there instead. We no longer need specific retailers because there are so many options out there for consumers. Retailers now need us.

FURTHER READING

Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren Hit Hard by Stores’ Discounting Binge – Business of Fashion (August 2016)

The Future of Retailing: The Technology Revolution is Now – Forbes (August 2016)

RECOMMENDED RETAILERS (online & in-store)

Forward by Elyse Walker

Matches Fashion

Net-A-Porter & The Outnet

Opening Ceremony

 

& Other Stories, Soho, New York

Barneys New York, Downtown location (Chelsea, New York)

Topshop Oxford Circus, London

Aritzia, Flatiron location, New York

 

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