Fashion, Weekly Words

Weekly Words: 11th November 2017

This week has been another news-filled saga, with more and more sexual harassment accusations coming out. Kevin Spacey has finally tumbled. I read about him years ago and told many of my friends, but of course his accusers weren’t believed until a week or so ago. It is getting to the stage now where you wonder if there are any stars in Hollywood who haven’t been affected by this kind of behavior, whether they were the victim or the culprit. Fashion isn’t much better, on the modelling side of things, and much of the focus has been on Terry Richardson. Although it is good news that publications are finally refusing to work with him, he is not the only person in the industry who behaves in such ways. Edie Campbell penned a good open letter in WWD on this topic, and her status as an insider can describe the situation a lot better than I can. On a happier note, Edward Enninful’s first British Vogue cover hit the newsstands this week. So far, the response has been overwhelmingly positive. Thankfully, he pulled out all the stops with a Steven Meisel-lensed, Adwoa Aboah-fronted cover. The styling was great, the makeup was memorable, and the overall concept was so retro-glamorous that it could not be faulted. I am going to keep my copy for years to come. I know it will become a real collectors item. Finally, the last big news item of the week is that the Met Gala’s 2018 theme has been confirmed as relating to Catholicism and its depictions in fashion. Not only will it include inspired pieces, but garments worn by the Pope are going to be transported into the museum. Apparently it will be the biggest exhibition yet, but I feel like they say that every year so we shall see. Rihanna and Amal Clooney are the hosts, which I feel is a rather strange choice as neither of them are outwardly Catholic. However, Rihanna is the one Met Gala attendee that you can always count on to show up on theme and try hard so she is always welcome.

British Vogue, December 2017

Reading:

“British Vogue: Why the new issue is so historic” – The Independent

“Edie Campbell Pens Open Letter on Model Abuse” – WWD

“The Costume Institute Takes On Catholicism” – The New York Times

“Kevin Spacey’s Unprecedented Fall From Grace Tests a Stunned Hollywood” – LA Times

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Fashion, Weekly Words

Weekly Words: 29th July 2017

Pat McGrath Joins British Vogue as Beauty Editor-at-Large” – Fashionista

Since Edward Enninful’s editorship of British Vogue was announced big changes have been underway at the magazine. Not only has he replaced the Fashion Director, but he has been assembling his own dream team, filled with some of the major players of the industry. Honestly, all of the biggest names you can imagine are signing on to work at the magazine. I believe that it will become the leading fashion magazine, at least in insider opinion, by the end of the year. Pat McGrath, everybody’s favorite makeup artist and glitter giver, is now the beauty editor at large, with big names like Charlotte Tilbury and Guido Palau named as beauty contributors. The Fashionista article linked above also mentions all of his new appointments such as Jane How and Marie-Amélie Sauvé in the fashion department and Adwoa Aboah as a contributing editor. I’m so excited to see Edward’s first issue and how it all turns out.

“Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing Sets Up Shop at the Root of His Pop Culture Obsession” – Fashionista

Can you believe that Balmain didn’t already have a Los Angeles store? I couldn’t, but alas Olivier Rousteing has opened up the brand’s one and only LA based boutique on Melrose Place, one of the city’s most desired addresses just off Melrose Avenue. The store launched with an event attended by Kim Kardashian and it was the first time that I have spotted the Kardashians in Balmain for months now. The brand seems to have fallen out of their favor and, with that action, out of the public’s consciousness. It’s a fickle world we live in. Regardless, the new boutique looks like it will be a beautiful store to shop in. The design is very classy and features a stunning outdoor space (photographed above). I think I’ll make a visit to the store when I’m back in LA at the end of summer.

“Warby Parker Does Streetwear, Collaborates with Virgil Abloh” – Refinery29

Accessible and cool eyewear brand Warby Parker has teamed up with fashion industry darling Virgil Abloh for a collection of three pairs of sunglasses. Aptly named “Small Sunglasses”, “Medium Sunglasses”, and “Large Sunglasses” (quotation marks included), the three styles are unisex and priced at just $95. Although I can imagine that the smallest size will sell out the fastest (everybody loves those mini-styles nowadays), I personally prefer the large as I like my sunglasses oversized. As of the launch date (July 25th), I’m still deciding if I want to purchase a pair. It is a pretty cool collaboration and I can imagine there will be a decent resale value. Plus, they look really good.

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Fashion, Weekly Words

Weekly Words: July 8th 2017

“Will I Get a Ticket?” – Vestoj


In an explosive, first-person report, Lucinda Chambers, former (25 year) fashion director of British Vogue, reveals some hard truths about the fashion industry. The most important thing that she revealed was that she was fired by Edward Enninful almost instantly (in three minutes) and that nobody around her, not even the publisher or current EIC, knew that it was going to happen. I don’t think anybody was surprised when she stepped down from her role. After all, when a new EIC comes in it is not uncommon for the team to change entirely. However, it was the fact that she was fired then replaced fairly quickly by Venetia Scott that was surprising. Other things that she reveals in the account are that she hasn’t read Vogue for years nor lives a Vogue-like lifestyle, that she thinks the fashion system is unsympathetic and does not give people a chance, and that Vetements was a welcome addition to the fashion calendar. I encourage you to read this piece while you still can. It was published then unpublished in a day due to the reaction it got in the fashion community (it was published during Couture Week, when everybody is together again), and then republished again the following day.

“How to Sell a Billion-Dollar Myth Like a French Girl” – Racked

Bardot in stripes

The concept of living like a French girl, from eating a croissant in the morning after rolling out of bed with your hair in that perfectly undone up-do to dressing in Breton stripes and cropped pants, riding a bicycle along the Seine, is a long-standing stereotype of sophistication. French girls have that je ne sais quoi and the media and various companies have capitalized off this. They are foreign enough to Americans and Brits that we want to emulate their lifestyles but not so different that it seems completely unachievable. That’s why countless books, magazine articles, and online posts have been penned on how to be French if you aren’t even from there. It’s almost an in-joke now. This particular article from Racked focuses on how companies have managed to profit from the stereotype, from beauty brands like Glossier and French Girl Organics to clothing brands like The Kooples. It is a fun read that helps you see things for how they really are.

“Why You Should Never Name a Company After Yourself” – Quartz

Clare Vivier of Clare V.

This article was apt as a follow-up to the one I posted last week about Thaddeus O’Neil and his battle with surf brand O’Neill (different spellings, different target markets). It details the various reasons why designers shouldn’t use their own name as a brand and gives examples of many designers who have now lost the rights to use their own names for their own products – Donna Karan and Kate Spade are two major names. It seems crazy that you lose the legal grounds to your own name but once you build it up as a brand and sell it to external investors, you give it up. Smaller brands can be devastated by the legal fees that come with litigation (like the situation that Thaddeus O’Neil is in right now) and often have to give up to the corporate giants who sue them. Los Angeles-based handbag designer Clare V is an example of this, with the brand formerly being known as Clare Vivier before being sued by Roger Vivier. She chose to change her brand’s name because they could not afford to waste money fighting the case. This likely happens for many brands and according to the article the easiest way to protect yourself in this situation is to choose a unique, different name to begin with.

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Fashion, Fashion News

Edward Enninful Confirmed at British Vogue

Omg. I’m so excited. I know that is possibly the least sophisticated way possible to start a post but I am genuinely thrilled to hear the news that Edward Enninful will be taking the position of Editor in Chief of British Vogue, replacing Alexandra Shulman effective August 1st. Edward freaking Enninful going to British Vogue. Wow.

This is exciting on so many levels. Firstly, a new editor in chief means a new direction for the magazine. I’m particularly excited about this because I am actually an avid reader of British Vogue. I’ve had a subscription since I was twelve years old and I look forward to reading it every single month. In fact, just today I read the May 2017 issue whilst enjoying the sunshine in Central Park. I like British Vogue under Shulman but I do agree with lots of the criticism of her magazine (e.g. lack of diversity, very specific target market – rich women who live in the countryside). I’m interested to see what Enninful’s take on the magazine will be. Will he completely change the direction in terms of features or will he keep things largely the same? I enjoy reading British Vogue because of the features in it, more so than the editorials often. Sometimes I can tell that an article has not been written for me at all but other times I really enjoy it. For example, in this month’s issue there was a great article about Gosha Rubchinskiy that I found interesting and actually informative. I think they do a good job of having at least two standout articles per issue so I’d like to hope that things continue this way, perhaps improving even further.

Secondly, what is going to happen to the British Vogue team? It must be rather frightening when your editor is leaving because often when a new one comes in the staff changes entirely. I hope that the core team stays the same because I honestly think that British Vogue has a great team. I love Sarah Harris, Julia Hobbs, Ellie Pithers, and Naomi Smart. There’s obviously so many more team members but they are people who I know of that I admire. I expect that Enninful will bring in some new fashion editors and start to work with different photographers and models too. I’m guessing it will mean less Mario Testino, more Mert & Marcus.

Enninful has had such an amazing career up until this point and this feels like such a moment to celebrate in fashion. Everywhere I’ve looked the reaction to his appointment has been extremely positive with everyone saying how he’s so deserving and the best candidate for the job. I’m really happy for him too and I’m excited to see what happens next. Congratulations to Edward Enninful!

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Fashion, Fashion News

Alexandra Shulman exiting British Vogue

I’m sure you’ve all seen the news by now but I thought it was time to weigh in myself, or merely comment. Alexandra Shulman is leaving her position as Editor-in-Chief of British Vogue after 25 years, the longest tenure of any editor thus far. She cites the desire for a different kind of life after all of the time at the top. It makes sense & also rules out any other possible career moves people may speculate about.

Honestly, I love British Vogue. Maybe it’s because it’s the magazine that I grew up reading or maybe it’s because I’m from there, but it is my favourite edition of Vogue to actually sit down and look through in detail. I don’t think I can do that with any other editions (often for language barriers or, in terms of American Vogue, readership age/target market). I am also confident that the magazine will not crumble without Shulman there to lead. The team is fantastic. That’s what makes the magazine so good. Julia Hobbs, Sarah Harris, Naomi Smart, Lucinda Chambers, Ellie Pithers – I could really just list the entire masthead – are all so talented.

The timing of Shulman’s departure makes sense, logically. Firstly, 25 years, a quarter of a century, is a hell of a long time to be in one job, especially such a high profile, high responsibility role. Secondly, she has achieved so much in the last year that it would seem like nothing could ever top it. The British Vogue centenary celebrations went well (slight understatement), culminating in a party, festival, and portraiture exhibition featuring the most coveted cover star, the Duchess of Cambridge, Kate Middleton. There was also a documentary covering the time period released on BBC2 at the tail end of 2016. In terms of going out on a high, Shulman is soaring.

I wish her all the best in whatever she chooses to pursue going forward and I excitedly wait the announcement of her successor. I don’t even know who it could be, but I really do hope it is an internal promotion. The Vogue staffers deserve it.

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Editorial, Fashion

Best of 2016 – Vogue Editorials

I look forward to writing this post every year because it is an excuse for me to trawl through the internet looking for images that I find inspiring. I trust Vogue’s all around the world to create stellar content that both inspire and evoke other emotions in me. I love a good fashion editorial. I wish that I could be paid to create them and that I had the resources to do so.

What makes a good editorial? To me, the model. I have to like the model and find her appealing or else I won’t enjoy the images, even if the styling is good. I also think the photographer is important as there are some whose style I don’t particularly like and others who I am taken by. Finally, the fashion editor helps immensely. Without their vision the editorial wouldn’t exist. I love how fashion is such a collaborative creative process. All of the people involved are needed.

Anyway, as per usual I’m reviewing British Vogue, American Vogue, Italian Vogue, and Vogue Paris in this post. Enjoy!

British Vogue

563126-800wFirst Light

Photographer – Tyrone Lebon, Stylist – Francesca Burns, Models – Frederikke Sofie & Damaris Goddrie

See full editorial here. 

460844-800wGet In Line

Photographer – Alasdair McLellan, Stylist – Kate Phelan, Model – Anna Ewers

See full editorial here. 

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As Time Goes By

Photographer – Mario Testino, Stylist – Lucinda Chambers, Model – Erin O’Connor (various)

American Vogue

Ready Set Gala

Photographer – Theo Wenner, Stylist – Sara Moonves, Models – Lily Aldridge & Emily Ratajkowski

See full editorial here.

Major General

Photographer – Mikael Jansson, Stylist – Tabitha Simmons, Models – Edie Campbell & Grace Hartzel

See full editorial here.

Drop Everything

Photographer – Alasdair McLellan, Stylist – Tonne Goodman/Michael Philouze, Model – Imaan Hammam

Vogue Italia 

Note: Since writing this the much loved Editor-in-Chief Franca Sozzani passed away at just 66 after a year long battle with an illness. This came as such a shock to me as I had no idea she was unwell. It was very sad news. In the days after her death you could truly see the admiration and love for her from the fashion community as a whole which was really beautiful. Rest in peace.

In the Mood for Lightness

Photographer – Paolo Roversi, Stylist – Jacob K, Models – Estella Boersma, Amalie Moosgaard, Cecilie Moosgaard, Julie Hoomans, Odette Pavlova, Peyton Knight & Roos Abels

See full editorial here.

Valentino

Photographer – Sarah Moon, Stylist – Patti Wilson, Model – Molly Bair

See full editorial here.

Freja Beha Erichsen

Photographer – Peter Lindbergh, Stylist – Clare Richardson, Model – Freja Beha Erichsen

See full editorial here.

Vogue Paris

Back to Black

Photographer – Claudia Knoepfel, Stylist – Veronique Didry, Models – Grace Elizabeth & Mathilde Brok Brandi

See full editorial here.

Mes Nuits Sont Plus Belles Que Vos Jours 

Photographer – Mert & Marcus, Stylist – Emmanuelle Alt, Models – Irina Shayk & Steffy Argelich

See full editorial here.

Oh! You Pretty Things

Photographer – Mert & Marcus, Stylist – Emmanuelle Alt, Models – Bella Hadid, Taylor Hill, Jena Goldsack

See full editorial here.

 

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Editorial

Best of 2015 – Vogue Editorials

In what is now a tradition, I want to showcase my favourite editorials of the year from the big four Vogues: UK, USA, France & Italy. Some smaller editions also produce fantastic content (I really like Vogue Australia at the moment, for example) but I just focus on the traditionally most important in this specific post. I found it really interesting when working on this post that you can see how different the magazines are stylistically. Vogue Paris, under Emmanuelle Alt, is cool in a party-girl way; Vogue Italia is the most out-there, usually; British Vogue is often quite boring in its model choice but often showcases nice clothes; American Vogue is the original and therefore should be the best, but I find that it also overuses the same models (a lot of Kendall and Gigi this year). I do love Grace Coddington and Tonne Goodman’s work though. The same as last year, I’ll feature my favourite photos from the editorial and leave you a link to the rest. See below:

American Vogue

Light Brigade – March 2015

Models – Aya Jones, Imaan Hammam, Kai Newman, Leila Nda, Malaika Firth, Tami Williams

Photographer – Peter Lindbergh

Stylist – Grace Coddington

See full editorial here

Instant Classic – September 2015

Model – Kendall Jenner

Photographer – Inez & Vinoodh

Stylist – Tonne Goodman

See full editorial here

Flights of Fancy – October 2015

Models – Alisa Ahmann, Aya Jones, Dylan Xue, Hollie May Saker, Lily Aldridge, Natalie Westling, Sam Rollinson

Photographer – Willy Vanderperre

Stylist – Tabitha Simmons

See full editorial here

Hot Head – November 2015

Model – Emily Ratajkowski

Photographer – Theo Wenner

Stylist – Tabitha Simmons

See full editorial here

British Vogue

Blue Summer – June 2015

Model – Anna Ewers

Photographer – Patrick Demarchelier

Stylist – Clare Richardson

See full editorial here

Variety Show – August 2015

Model – Lara Stone

Photographer – Mario Testino

Stylist – Lucinda Chambers

See full editorial here

Vogue Italia

Close Up – March 2015

Models – Esther Heesch, Charlene Hogger, & Frances Coombe

Photographer – Luciana Val & Franco Musso

Stylist – Enrica Ponzellini

See full editorial here

A Unique Style – September 2015

Model – Leila Nda

Photographer – Paolo Roversi

Stylist – Panos Yiapanis

See full editorial here

The Power of Personality – November 2015

Model – Gigi Hadid

Photographer – Steven Meisel

Stylist – Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele

See full editorial here

Vogue Paris

Parlez Vous Francais? – May 2015

Models – Anna Ewers, Cameron Russell, Edie Campbell, Jordan Barrett, Karlie Kloss, Liya Kebede, Mica Arganaraz, Rianne Ten Haken

Photographer – Inez & Vinoodh

Stylist – Emmanuelle Alt

See full editorial here

Amoureuse Solitaire – September 2015

Model – Natalie Westling

Photographer – Glen Luchford

Stylist – Suzanne Koller

See full editorial here

Etat de Grace – November 2015

Model – Frederikke Sofie

Photographer – David Sims

Stylist – Jane How

See full editorial here

Natural Hype – December 2015

Model – Willow Hand

Photographer – Gregory Harris

Stylist – Geraldine Saglio

See full editorial here

Cadeaux – December 2015

Model – Anais Mali

Photographer – Giampaolo Sgura

Stylist – Claire Dhelens

See full editorial here

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Fashion News, Opinion

Vogue’s Lack of Cover Diversity

UPDATE: This post has been edited to remove Jourdan Dunn from the below list as it has been revealed that she is British Vogue’s February cover model. Definitely a step in the right direction although she does look eerily whitewashed. Lets put it down to the Instagram filter right?

As we bring in the new year and move into the future, it is only expected that we reflect back on the past. Vogue, both its US & UK editions, rather innocently posted an image of all of their covers from the year of 2014. However, this move prompted much backlash. Why? Because of the lack of model diversity. For British Vogue, there were zero women-of-colour; for American, there were just a few (including Rihanna, Lupita Nyong’o and Joan Smalls who was on the multi-model September issue cover). British Vogue has no excuse. They had 2 Kate Moss covers, 2 Cara Delevingne covers and actually, to their credit, a few models – but no non-whites. It may seem slightly trivial to call such attention to a matter as, seemingly, small as models on a magazine cover but really it is a big deal. Now, I do think it would be slightly unfair to call the Vogue staffers racist but their actions aren’t far off. It is not like there is any shortage of beautiful women-of-colour out there: talented models, actresses, and singers.

Can we call this racism? I think so. Unfortunately, 2014 was the year that we all realised that racism really isn’t dead. I rather naively thought that it wasn’t as rampant as it was 50 years ago but have been proven completely wrong. The high profile cases of police brutality against blacks in the USA have brought global attention to the issue and have led to widespread outcry. It is so fucked up, that’s the only way I can describe it. When you highlight major issues like that, it sounds rather silly to complain about models on a magazine cover but it is actually a major issue in its own right. In Britain, we are a very multicultural society; even more so in London, where British Vogue is based. From looking at the magazine covers from the past year, you would never know. There is zero representation of anybody that is not white and that really doesn’t make sense. I mean, at least American Vogue did a little bit better but really, it is still not good enough.

Instead of harping on about race issues, something that I feel completely under-qualified to do, I am going to suggest some suitable models/celebrities who I think are deserving of a cover. As I have said previously, there are plenty of women-of-colour who could/would/should be on the cover of Vogue but I am going to offer up a few suggestions.

  1. Naomi Campbell – It seems insane to even have to suggest Naomi, especially since she is one of the biggest supermodels ever. She is on the same level as Kate Moss, I’d say, who had 2 covers this year and countless editorials all throughout. Just to let you know, Naomi hasn’t had a British Vogue cover since the August 2002 issue.
  2. Imaan Hammam – Technically she has already graced the cover of Vogue in the past year but it was a multi-model cover and this time around she deserves a solo. I think Imaan is one of the most stunning models of recent and clearly has success ahead of her. She is Dutch but of Egyptian and Moroccan descent and has what is perhaps the best hair in fashion at the moment (those curls!!). PS – She’s in the Givenchy campaign this season which I have another post coming up about…
  3. Malaika Firth – Another British model who has only made it big in the past year or two, Malaika has walked many shows and has fronted campaigns for Burberry (alongside Cara Delevingne) and Prada, where she was the first black model to star in a Prada campaign in almost 20 years.
  4. Kerry Washington – Perhaps one of the most stunning actresses EVER, Kerry Washington has held her own in her part in the US-TV drama Scandal, a role in which she has received much acclaim (An Emmy, A SAG & A Golden Globe). She also made it onto TIME Magazine’s Most Influential People in the World list in 2014.
  5. Beyonce & Solange – This seems a bit too dreamlike but how amazing would a Beyonce & Solange shared cover be? The sisters would contrast each other with their totally different styles (Solange, edgy and very-much fashion/Beyonce, laid back and casual). Also, everybody knows that Beyonce rules the entire world so why not share some of that with her sister?
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Editorial

Best of 2014 – Vogue Editorials

As per last year’s post, of around the same time of year, I have decided to round up what I consider to be the best editorials of the year. In this post, I will deal specifically with the four big Vogue magazines: British, American, Italian & French. Although, historically, these magazines are considered the best of the Vogues, I’m not 100% sure that that is still the case. Vogue Nippon (Japan) and Vogue Russia are, in my opinion, shining as bright stars in terms of editorials (I have no idea about actual content, I can’t read either language). However, like last year, I’m going to use this post for the Big Four and a separate one for the other, smaller Vogue magazines along with the myriad other fashion publications, from the biggest to the most indie. Now I realise that this post will be very photo-heavy so apologies in advance if that is not your preference. To strike, what is hopefully, a balance, I will only post my favourite shots from each editorial and link the rest for you all to look at elsewhere. Let us commence!

BRITISH VOGUE

“Paradise City”

Models – Georgia May Jagger & Charlotte Free

Photographer – Tyrone Lebon

Stylist – Francesca Burns

See full editorial here.

See short film here.

“Santa Barbara”

Models – Andreea Diaconu & Ashleigh Good

Photographer – Josh Olins

Stylist – Clare Richardson

(This is probably my favourite British Vogue editorial of the entire year, Diaconu looks stunning all throughout).

See full editorial here.

“The Wolf in Her”

Model – Lara Stone

Photographer – Mario Sorrenti

Stylist – Kate Moss

See full editorial here.

See short film here.

Honorable mention to the Anna Ewers editorial “Two Weeks in September” which I have already made a post about previously. 

AMERICAN VOGUE

 “A Fine Romance”

Models – Lara Stone & Kit Harington

Photographer – Peter Lindbergh

Stylist – Tabitha Simmons

See full editorial here.

“The Feminine Mystique”

Model – Fei Fei Sun

Photographer – Peter Lindbergh

Stylist – Tonne Goodman

See full editorial here.

“The Dance of Seduction”

Models – Chanel Iman & A$AP Rocky

Photographer – Mikael Jansson

Stylist – Camilla Nickerson

See full editorial here.

VOGUE PARIS

“Un Week-End”

Models – Andreea Diaconu & Edita Vilkeviciute

Photographer – Mikael Jansson

Stylist – Anastasia Barbieri

See the full editorial here.

“Vent Du Nord”

Model – Andreea Diaconu

Photographer – Gregory Harris

Stylist – Veronique Didry

See full editorial here.

“L’Automne En Douce”

Model – Isabeli Fontana

Photographer – Scott Trindle

Stylist – Geraldine Saglio

See full editorial here. 

VOGUE ITALIA

“Horror Movie”

Models – Natalie Westling, Issa Lish & Bernd Sassmannshausen

Photographer – Steven Meisel

Stylist – Karl Templer

See full editorial here.

“Wild Chic Style”

Models – Langley Fox Hemmingway & Ruby Stewart

Photographer – Michel Comte

Stylist – Ayako Yoshida

See full editorial here.

As I have said before, there are many brilliant editorials in fashion publications that are not the Big Four Vogues. For that reason, another post choosing my favourites from the other magazines will be coming up shortly. Let me know what you think of my picks, are there any of your favourites that I missed?

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“Two Weeks In September” – Anna Ewers editorial

British Vogue often produces slightly mediocre editorials; it is usually the international editions who are recognised more for their art. However, once in a while they produce an excellent editorial, one that makes you forget all the bland ones that have been featured before it. This is one of them. Entitled “Two Weeks In September”, styled by Jane How and photographed by Glen Luchford, the editorial brings back the 60s, which is, as I mentioned in a previous post, the single biggest trend of the FW14 season.

Anna Ewers is one of my favourite models at the moment and I have championed her from the start of her career. I think I backed a winner (well, if I had placed a bet) because she seems to be going from strength to strength; continually booking blue chip campaigns, walking countless shows and starring in oh-so-many editorials and even covers. This editorial is one of my favourites of hers. Have a look at the images below, I don’t think they are in order though. (Credit for all images goes to whoever it is due.) Pick up a copy of the October 2014 issue of British Vogue to see the images in print.


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