Fashion, Weekly Words

Weekly Words: 5th August 2017

“The Blogger Divide: Converters or Brand-Builders?” – WWD

There’s an ever-evolving conversation about influencers and what their influence actually means. How does it translate into sales or awareness for brands and why even work with them (and pay them the exorbitantly high figures that they do)? With the rise of micro-influencers and brands gravitating towards those with a smaller but more engaged following, the place of the true influencers (1m plus followers on a platform) has been wavering. However, this WWD article shows that influencers are now separated into further subcategories, converters or brand-builders. Converters are the ones who actually drive sales and tend to have a smaller but more engaged following. They help the brand make sales and the influencer make money via affiliate links. Brand-builders are the ones like Chiara Ferragni who have huge followings (in Ferragni’s case, she has 10m on Instagram) but don’t necessarily convert these views into sales. However, neither type of influencer is better than the other and brands continue to work with them both. I’d be interested if there was a website out there that would be able to give you a list of all of the influencers and how their conversion actually works out so you’d be able to see who really is the most influential.

“Anthony Vaccarello’s Vision” – Harper’s Bazaar

I enjoyed reading this interview with Anthony Vaccarello, Saint Laurent’s creative director. Saint Laurent has been one of my favorite brands for as long as I can remember even caring about fashion and it is one that I keep up with season after season. Vaccarello had some large shoes to fill, entering the role after Hedi Slimane departed, but I’d say he has done a good job keeping the same level of buzz (or perhaps even growing it, marginally). Remember those slouchy glitter boots which had a waitlist at Saks the day of the runway show? They retail for $10000, FYI. I liked Vaccarello since a couple of years ago, when he was showing in Milan with the sexed-up Versace level of glam designs that put him on the map. I feel like his designs at Saint Laurent are just an extension of these with an added twist thrown in for good measure. This interview goes a little more in depth about Vaccarello’s life and career history. I’m always curious to hear people’s stories, especially those who are in a position that I admire. I’m excited to see the next Saint Laurent collection come the Spring shows!

“Vogue to Host Fall Conference with Star-Studded Designer Lineup” – Fashionista

Vogue Magazine is hosting a conference in October and no it doesn’t sound like that boring kind that your parents may have gotten sent to when you were a kid. They’ve managed to line up the best of the best in the industry as their speakers and have developed a one-day program at Milk Studios in Manhattan that seems like a genuinely interesting and valuable day to attend. Sounds great, until you see the price tag. A single ticket costs $3000. This is extremely prohibitive. I wonder how many companies will be willing to shell out this much for a ticket for employees and/or how many people will be willing to spend this much cash, personally, on such an event. The cost seems prohibitive. According to the Fashionista article, they will be releasing heavily discounted student tickets but I imagine even these will run for around $500. It’s a shame because when I first read about the event it seemed akin to the Vogue Festival which British Vogue hosted in London a few times. You could purchase tickets to individual talks for (I think) around 50 GBP (I don’t remember the exact price) and you had access to trend talks, styling sessions, and free manicures and hair & make-up. I initially thought this conference may have been a similar thing but evidently, it is not. Vogue is focused on professionals. I think it is sad that the cost is so high because the speakers are really amazing and I think the talks would be super valuable for people to hear, especially those who are trying to break into the industry. I’m waiting to hear what the student price is!

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Celebrity & Red Carpet

15 Looks Nicki Minaj Should Wear From The Spring 2016 Collections

Nicki Minaj is a queen. I truly mean that. I feel like she’s someone whose popularity is continuing to soar and I’m so happy about that. Something that I think has boosted her fame is her image overhaul which began around the time she joined American Idol. She stopped wearing the colourful wigs, wild make-up, and out-there outfits, and toned her look down – natural hair, more “normal” make-up, and a mix of high-end designer and fast-fashion clothes. To put it simply, she had a make-under. Whilst I do miss her old sense of style (it was so fun), I think she looks amazing now. For example, the VMA dress was a killer.

I find it fun to try and predict what Nicki is going to wear next, especially because she attends a few fashion shows nowadays and actually works with a brilliant stylist, Rushka Bergman, to create her red-carpet/event looks. There are a few designers who she clearly favours: the Alexanders (Wang & McQueen), namely. I’ll choose looks from designers I know she likes and also ones which I think she would like to be introduced to. I’m going to pick 15 different designers and select looks from their shows which I think she should wear (yes, I’m totally cheating with this post title). When I did this before, I actually got a couple looks spot-on that she wore. I wonder if the same will happen this time.

Also, on the topic of Nicki, read this NY Times profile – it’s amazing.

Jeremy Scott

Nicki used to wear a lot of Jeremy Scott back in the days when she used to dress more kooky and she still does wear a lot of his designs for Moschino. I think she would look great in this checkerboard cardigan, mixed and matched with this printed bikini. I think this would work great for a music video.

Givenchy

Another brand that Nicki seems to be rather fond of, Givenchy is a show which she actually attended in New York (wearing the designer head-to-toe, naturally). There were quite a few looks which stood out to me and I think would work, depending on the occasion. The first would be the dress which Joan Smalls wore – the black gown with the full skirt and fur – which I think would only be appropriate for a grand red carpet event (Oscars, Grammys, Met Gala) but I’m not sure there’s anything coming up soon that this would suit. The cross-over top and skirt combination that Pooja Mor wore would work well for a more casual event, however it isn’t often that you see Nicki in that type of neckline. Finally, I think that the feathered jacket with the bejewelled top and trousers would look insane. Nicki doesn’t often wear trousers to events but I think this could look great. Conversely, the trousers could easily be swapped out for a black pencil skirt. I’d go for Stuart Weitzman’s Nudist shoes in black with all of these looks.

Zac Posen

I’m not sure that Nicki has even worn a lot of Zac Posen but I wish she would – a ball gown would look fabulous. However, the look that I am going to suggest is the black bandeau strapless dress with the full skirt and slight tiers. I think this would look amazing if she had her hair down in a centre-part, a dark red or wine lip, and pointed black suede heels (Manolo Blahnik or Jimmy Choo perhaps).

Burberry

There’s three different looks that I think could work from the Burberry show. The first is the long dress with the full skirt and sheer panels. I think Nicki would wear this firstly because it has transparent sections and therefore it would show off her insane body, and secondly because she has favoured a fuller skirt in the past. I’d also like to see her wear this black coat with gold details. I think this would work for a casual look (perhaps paired with some items from Fashion Nova, a store that she seems to love nowadays). Finally, I think this short taupe dress would work well. As I said before, she used to wear full skirts quite often and this one reminds me of Alexander McQueen dresses which she has been seen wearing before. I think the details on this are so pretty too.

Moschino

As I said before, Nicki likes Moschino. I think it’s a bit of a throwback to the wild outfits she wore when she was first blowing up. I think she’d buy these two t-shirt dresses because they’re both rather funny (the second being a Chanel-logo parody, another brand she’s fond of), maybe the boots, and also this coat. The coat reminded me of the one she wore for a Casio event in New York back in 2012.

Monique Lhuillier

The only time I can remember Nicki wearing Monique Lhuillier before was at the AMAs a few years ago when she wore the bright yellow gown – it was quite a moment. This look I’ve chosen is more casual than a full-on gown. On the runway it is styled with a white top underneath but I propose we remove that and just have the floral crop-top and skirt instead. This is a look that I really really really want to see her in because I can just imagine it looking so brilliant.

Christian Dior

Now that we know that this is Raf’s final collection for Dior, I feel that Nicki needs to wear something from the collection. I mean, who knows what the next collection will be like or who the hell will be designing it? Maybe the floral set was an omen that I missed – taking it full circle. I chose this simple jacket-dress, reminiscent of the infamous Bar Jacket. Hey, you’ve got to try the classics at least once right? Pair it with some tough looking boots and all will be good. I’m thinking something by Saint Laurent or Giuseppe Zanotti.

Balenciaga

Since I didn’t include any mainline Alexander Wang in this list, I thought I’d better include something from his swan song for Balenciaga. I see that next season will be one of change – will Nicki even wear Balenciaga if it isn’t designed by Wang? I opted for this white look with the shaping around the breasts, because I can only imagine that it would look better on someone with fuller breasts than the model – no offence intended, I’m in the small group too. Louis Vuitton

I went for this pink biker jacket from Nicolas’ latest collection. It reminded me of when Nicki used to be like Barbie. If only she’d go for one of the old Barbie necklaces with it. That would make my life. I can imagine her wearing this casually, perhaps shopping, flying, or the likes (I don’t know how she spends her downtime).

Alexander McQueen

Instead of going for one of the flowery, floaty looks from this show I propose something a little different – my favourite look in fact. Jeans and a top. I can see her going for this entire look to be honest. To make it perfect, I’d like black hair in a bun with a fringe, but that may be too much to ask!

Versace

I loved this season’s Versace. Raquel Zimmerman opened it by stomping down the runway in this khaki blazer which I’d love to see Nicki in. I also really like this dress which Gigi Hadid wore but I fear that it might be too associated with her already for someone else to wear it and nobody really wants a “who wore it better?” moment, so I think Natasha Poly’s could be a close alternative.

Oscar de la Renta

This dress was just so pretty that I couldn’t not include it on this list. I can imagine this with a centre-parted wavy hairstyle and matching lipstick. I know Nicki used to favour Oscar so maybe its time she wore something from the brand again.

Altuzarra

My favourite New York designer’s clothes have never been worn by Nicki as far as I know. That should change. I went for this exotic skin coat because I feel like it is her down to a tee – glamorous and luxurious and so fucking expensive. This would be a great introduction to the brand’s clothing.

Anthony Vaccarello

This dress may be pushing the limits a little in terms of how risque Nicki is willing to dress. However, if she’ll push the boundaries this far I’d be impressed. I loved Vaccarello’s show and this was one of my favourite dresses from it.

Ashish

The first thing I’ll say about this is that I suggest hiking the skirt up over the belly button to make it high waisted. I think that would look better (more flattering) and also show less unnecessary stomach. This is one of the looks that I think she’s least likely to wear, but I’ll include it anyway. Oh, and change the shoes too.

So there’s 15 different designers, a few more looks. You’ll probably have noticed that there’s a few major brands who I’ve left out – Balmain, Alexander Wang, and Chanel are just a few – and the reason for this was rather simple: I couldn’t see any looks that I’d put her in. I can guarantee that she’ll wear quite a few pieces from Balmain (she always does), maybe something from T by Alexander Wang or a custom modified runway piece (I couldn’t see any straight-off-the-runway that I’d put her in), and she’ll buy a few bags and maybe shoes from Chanel.

Is there a glaringly obvious look you think I’ve missed? Let me know. Apart from that, I’m fairly confident in my choices. I hope she wears at least one. Ruskha, it’s over to you now.

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