Fashion, Weekly Words

Weekly Words: May 27th 2017

“From the archive: Anna Wintour on leaving London for New York” – The Guardian

I don’t know about you but the first thing I do when I wake up is check my email. Among the endless promotional codes and spam-like attempts to capture attention from various retailers lies The Business of Fashion’s Daily Digest. One day last week they highlighted this 1997 article from The Guardian on Anna Wintour, posted on The Guardian’s website as a piece from the archive. I’m not sure why they revived a 20 year old article but it was such a good read. It’s amazing to see how things have changed in that time. As I said when I read the profile of Anna Wintour for the site’s print issue, Anna Wintour comes across really well. She is a formidable woman who earned her place in the industry. She has a reputation for being icy and mean yet every piece of journalism I’ve read relating to her paints a different picture. This profile was endearing because she talks about her own career path in the most humble way possible. She also talks about the differences between the UK and the US, something that I can relate to having made the move myself. If you want to read a good throwback article, click the link above.

“Bella Hadid’s New Nike Campaign Pays Homage To ’70s-era Farrah Fawcett” – Fashionista (IMAGES)

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Personal

Life Update

I’ve finished another semester at FIT and it feels strange. I’m in a very exciting yet slightly scary place in life right now. Technically, I’m a college graduate having achieved an Associate’s degree. Of course I’m going to return to earn my Bachelor’s but not before taking a semester off.

I’m somebody who values real experience over books. After high school I took almost two years off from education to work, both in an office job and in retail, with internships along the way. Heading back to school full time last summer was kind of scary for me, just because I’d forgotten what it was like to sit in a classroom for hours at a time. That, coupled with the fact that I wasn’t going to be earning my own money for the first time since turning 16, was tough for me. However, I adapted into the college life pretty quickly. It’s amazing to me that that very short chapter of my life is over already.

The next few months are going to be pretty crazy for me actually. I’m slightly worried but also extremely excited because, for once, I’m going to be doing something that I really want to do. I’m interning with for the summer whilst also working retail (with the job title of stylist too). I’m beyond excited to start to gain this experience in my internships, even if it consists of a lot of returns and pick-ups, carrying clothes, and steaming. That’s what an assistant does.

I’ve found that since moving to New York I’ve had a real shift in attitude and it is probably the opposite of what you would expect. Instead of becoming more and more stressed about “making it” and needing to have achieved a certain level of success by a certain age, I’ve relaxed. I now want to focus on the bigger picture, on life as a whole. I no longer feel this great urgency or huge rush to achieve everything instantly. I was getting ahead of myself before and would’ve ended up tripping up. I’m ready to assist people, work hard, and learn the ropes from people who know best. I’m so young, something that I often forget.

On the topic of styling and careers and that whole area, Fashionista.com have been publishing some great articles recently on their careers series. In particular, I enjoyed the guide on “How to Make It as a Celebrity Stylist in 2017”. They also published an in-depth chat with Rachel Zoe who is perhaps the most prominent (former) celebrity stylist of my lifetime which I spoke about in a previous Weekly Words post.

The point of this post was to give a brief update on how things are with me and what I’m going to be doing over the next few months. If content on this blog drops off I apologize. I’m going to be working 6 days a week with little free time so I may not have much time left to dedicate to this. I’m enjoying writing the Weekly Words posts because I’m just summarizing/commenting on any news stories that I’ve come across in the past week and talking about it as if you’re my friend. (I don’t have anyone in real life to discuss these stories with!!) However, I might not be able to keep up with that schedule and it may become bi-weekly words. Regardless of what happens, I’m still here. I still love writing on this blog. I still love posting random compilation videos on YouTube. I still post on Instagram all the damn time. Stick around!

MY LINKS

Instagram – personal @bigbabyeve

Youtube – Eve Gardiner

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Fashion, Weekly Words

Weekly Words: May 20th 2017

“A Day in the Life of Kim Kardashian’s Right-Hand Woman, Stephanie Shepherd” – Refinery29

I hate to admit it but recently I’ve found myself watching Keeping Up with the Kardashians on a semi-regular basis. I will just watch random repeats on E! on a lazy weekday morning if I don’t have class. My newfound interest is funny because apparently the national interest in the infamous family is wavering. Kim’s robbery, Kendall’s myriad PR mishaps, Kylie’s ongoing plastic surgery rumours, Kourtney’s relationship drama, and Khloe’s latest break-up with another NBA star, Kris’s heartbreak over C(K)aitlyn’s book – all big moments yet failing to make the same impact as before. Charlamagne actually talked about this on a recent episode of The Brilliant Idiots, his podcast with Andrew Schulz, saying that in a world where Donald Trump is president, we no longer need reality tv. However, the point of highlighting this Refinery29 article was not to mention the Kardashians but to put a spotlight on Stephanie Shepherd, or Steph Shep as most of us know her. Shepherd is Kim Kardashian’s assistant, but, as the interview proves, she is so much more than that, encompassing the role of brand manager, friend, and general all-around helper. I find her job interesting because it is such a 24 hour role. I know that in most companies, the executive assistants work the same hours as their bosses which often means very early mornings and late nights, plus constantly being on call in the evenings, checking emails and messages. However, they get the weekend off when their boss isn’t in the office. Working for a celebrity is so different because there’s no such thing as a traditional work week. They don’t take the weekends off. They may be travelling constantly. It seems to me that Shepherd has given up much of her personal life for her job. Regardless, she comes across as genuine, earnest, and eager. Often profiles of people make them sound vapid, especially those who are in Hollywood, but the Refinery29 profile of Shepherd was fair and actually a really interesting read. I might end up becoming one of her 600k+ followers on Instagram. Not bad for an assistant. And remember, Kim started off as Paris Hilton’s assistant. How they rise!

“How Rachel Zoe is building an empire with female empowerment in mind” – Fashionista.com

Continuing on the theme of careers, Fashionista sat down and did an in-depth interview with Rachel Zoe. It’s impossible to think of the 2000s without thinking of Zoe. Her style was definitive of the decade with the army of Zoebots. Now she has transitioned into building her brand, moving away from celebrity styling almost completely. I just enjoyed reading this article so much because I have such a fondness for Rachel Zoe. She seems like a good person, she has perhaps my dream life, a wonderful family, and she has worked so hard. I find her inspirational and can only hope that I reach her level of success someday.

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Fashion, Weekly Words

Weekly Words: May 13th 2017

“The Greatest Moments in 80s Street Style” – Lone Wolf Magazine

I stumbled across this magazine’s website randomly this week and actually really liked the articles. This one in particular features a series of images of street style photographs from the 1980s, a decade that has been hot in fashion recently both on the runways and in-stores, encroaching on the general psyche en masse. I think people often have a negative perception of the 80s in terms of fashion because they think of an over-the-top generalization of the decade. Shoulder pads and polyester aside, a lot of really cool images, music, models, designers, and trends originated during this decade. The images show a lot of regular people (and Jackie Onassis) wearing the styles of the time in the most authentic way possible that we can never really recreate now. Plus, they have a photo of Demi Moore in St Elmo’s Fire which will always be the pinnacle of cool, style-wise, for me.

“Catching up with Tommy Ton, Street Style Photography Legend” – Grailed

Continuing on the street style theme of the previous article, Grailed did a great interview with Tommy Ton, one of the most prominent street-style photographers of the past decade. I enjoyed hearing about his career and why he chose to take a step back from publishing his images on Vogue and GQ’s online platforms (his contract was up and he doesn’t enjoy it as much as before, plus he does other work with brands now). He also discusses how he became a fashion collector (goals!) and the pieces that he is looking out for. This is particularly apt considering that Grailed is a high-end resale site. I thought it was a good way for them to incorporate editorial content with their site as it was actually an interesting interview yet they managed to tie it back into their service and link products similar to what Tommy Ton mentioned in the interview which they actually had for sale.

“Missy Elliott covers Elle USA”

I have posted this cover (or the accompanying editorial shots) on every social media network I have. I’m obsessed. Not only does Missy look amazing but this is actually an eye-catching cover, styled in a super cool way, and has such good makeup. It’s a win all around. I’m excited for this to turn up in my mailbox.

Photographer – Mark Seliger, Stylists – Misa Hylton & Samira Nasr 

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Editorial, Fashion

“Starker Vereinigt: Stronger United” in Blush Magazine – Spring 2017

My friend and I worked together on this editorial (which got cut down, unfortunately) and article for Blush Magazine at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT for short). It took inspiration from Berlin street style, the fashion collective GmbH, and the whole postmodernism movement that has taken place. The article discusses this in much more detail.

I decided to put together a little video with some further background on the brand plus some outtakes and behind the scenes clips from the day of the shoot. See below some grainy scans of the actual spread. In due time I will update this once the online edition of the magazine is available as a pdf so you can read it clearer. Until then, pick up a free issue if you’re on campus and get in touch with Blush Magazine on Instagram if you can’t get your hands on a copy!

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Fashion

Corsetry

Untitled #772

 

Restrictive is the best way to describe a corset. With the lingerie market trending towards lacy bralets and relaxed styles, why are these old-fashioned contraptions so appealing? Seen at Dior, labelled a “boob cage” by many critics, corsets represent females dressing in a way that does not allow movement and activity. A lady of leisure. Not a worker. Therefore, does the new corset, heralded by Maria Grazia Chiuri of Dior, mean something different given that this is the same woman who is now selling t-shirts with feminist slogans for hundreds of dollars a pop? Does it represent the unrealistic body standards young women are trying to conform to now, a teeny tiny waist with big hips and breasts (often achieved through surgical augmentations)? Or is it merely a corset? Something pretty to look at? You decide.
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Fashion, Weekly Words

Weekly Words: May 6th 2017

“Monica Rose splits with the Kardashians” – various sources

Monica Rose with Gigi Hadid

The biggest story that has been unfolding over the past 10 days or so is that Monica Rose, the stylist responsible for the Kardashian-Jenner extended family getting any recognition for their clothing, has been unceremoniously fired by all of her main clients, including Gigi Hadid. I was genuinely shocked when the first article saying this broke and I continue to be shocked a week later. It’s so surprising because of how long they have worked together and how nasty the split seems to be. For one, they’ve all unfollowed Monica on Instagram, despite the fact that they have been longterm friends as well as having a professional relationship. As neither party has given a reason for the split and Rose has reportedly hired lawyers (with rumors that Khloe has intent to sue), people are speculating terrible things. I’ve read that people think Monica Rose was an insider on Kendall Jenner’s recent robbery. I really hope this is not true. If it’s all a lie, it’s so horrible that Monica Rose’s reputation is being dragged through the mud. Stylists lose clients all the time. That’s nothing new. However, losing this many all at once suggests it is a personal rift instead of just a change in direction. Furthermore, Kylie Jenner is now working with one of Monica’s former assistants. That must hurt. The truth will come out eventually, and until then I’m going to keep judgement free.

“French Government to Buy Five Designer Items Each Season” – WWD

Paris Refashioned at MFIT

According to this WWD article, the French government are beginning to build a permanent collection of fashion items in an effort to preserve the country’s “cultural heritage” and are going to be purchasing five items per season to do this. Paris has been the longstanding center of the fashion universe and the fashion industry is a source of national pride for the French. It only seems natural that they would honor this institution and create a lasting legacy. The acquired pieces will form a permanent collection at the National Center for Visual Arts and will be used in exhibitions here or loaned to other museums around the world. I personally am all for the conservation of garments. Fashion can be a work of art, and I think the clothing should be displayed in museums even from a sociological or anthropological standpoint. Fashion reflects culture and I think it’s hard to tell the tale of a time properly without visually representing it in some way. It’s crazy to think now that current season Saint Laurent or Vetements could be archived and spotted in museums in 30 years time, but that’s likely what will happen. Every moment we live in becomes history. The fun part will be choosing which five items get to live on forever.

“Kendall Jenner Faces Backlash Over Vogue India Cover” – Fashionista

The past few weeks have been rough for Kendall Jenner. It seems like every move she makes is being critiqued, but rightly so. I actually agree with the backlash for this cover because I think models should have some accountability too, especially those who are as famous as Jenner. The issue with the magazine cover is that instead of using an Indian model or celebrity on a cover celebrating the 10th anniversary of the magazine, they used another white model. It doesn’t sound like much to some people but really representation matters and if you grow up only seeing images of white women held to the highest beauty standards then you may grow up thinking that only white women are beautiful, can be successful etc. That was reducing the matter down to its simplest form and representation is definitely a deeper issue. I listened to Shiona Turini’s interview on Man Repeller’s “Oh Boy” podcast earlier this week (it’s like a year old, I’m just super into the podcast right now) and she spoke about how representation matters not just in magazines but across the board. When she was a young girl she didn’t see anyone who looked like her successful in fashions (whether that be as magazine editors, PR people, buyers etc.). Visually, it matters. I just think Kendall Jenner is catching so much heat nowadays because she shirks from her problems, ignores any criticism, and just simply deletes things and moves on, whilst cashing that paycheck at the end of the day. People joke about Pepsi because she never issued an apology and tries to act like it didn’t happen. She deleted her Fyre Festival posts instead of just issuing an apology like Bella Hadid did. There are so many little things that are adding up to create a PR disaster for Jenner and really if she just took a step back and apologized nobody would care anymore.

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Celebrity & Red Carpet, Fashion

Met Gala 2017

The Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art decided to honor Rei Kawakubo, the legendary designer of Comme des Garcons, for their annual summer exhibition. The exhibition opening coincides with a fundraising gala, intended to raise money and awareness for the museum, more specifically the costume department, which has turned into a media spectacle in the past few years. Often touted as the most exclusive event in fashion, I’d argue that the Met Gala’s guest list this year was the most random and even disappointing in recent memory. Furthermore, the red carpet was also rather disappointing.

Comme des Garcons is avant-garde, out-there, fun, conceptual. It is not sexy, naked dresses. It is not pretty prom dresses. I understand that celebrities always want to look good but sometimes I wish they would forego the boring, normal gear that they could wear on any red carpet and fully indulge in the theme. Rihanna did this, of course. As did Caroline Kennedy, along with Pharrell and his wife. You also don’t have to wear the designer to be on theme. Understandably most of the celebrities in attendance were brought by a brand (e.g. Calvin Klein and the squad including A$AP Rocky) and as a result were dressed by said brand. However, you could still push the boat out a little.

I didn’t realize how infuriated I was with the whole Met Gala thing until this morning. I was walking home and I just felt irritated, then I remembered all of the things I’d seen the previous evening. First of all, the guest list of this event was nonsensical. What purpose does Migos, Wiz Khalifa, Kylie Jenner etc. serve at this event? Why did The Weeknd and Selena Gomez have to walk the red carpet together and continue their charade? Why did the person who coordinated the timings of arrivals schedule the aforementioned couple right after Bella Hadid’s family, The Weeknd’s ex-girlfriend and last-year’s entry ticket to the event? Everything was for clicks. And that’s how fashion is right now and it just drives me crazy. Fashion has become pop-culture in the worst way possible, no better than tabloid magazines. I could talk about this for hours (and honestly sometimes I do in real life) but I don’t want to drone on and on. Instead, see below my favorite looks of the evening – some on theme, some not:

Rihanna wearing Comme des Garcons

Naomi Campbell in Alaia, with Edward Enninful

Pharrell Williams & his wife Helen Lasichanh in Comme des Garcons

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Rami Malek in Dior

lily-aldridge-met-gala-2017-red-carpet

Lily Aldridge in Ralph Lauren & Balenciaga

Lupita Nyong’o in Prada

Michelle Monaghan in Paco Rabanne

Sofia Coppola in Marc Jacobs

Bella Hadid in Alexander Wang

Donald Glover in Burberry

Lara Stone in Christopher Kane

Solange in Thom Browne

Michael B Jordan in Ralph Lauren

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Fashion, Shows

Fashion Flashback: Balmain Fall 2008

Christophe Decarnin’s Balmain is to 2008 what Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent is to 2017. By that I mean they cater to a very similar customer. The wildly glamourous, slighly rock’n’roll party girl who still shops at Saint Laurent probably moved there after Decarnin departed from Balmain. First fed by Hedi Slimane’s rock chick look, the glamour that this girl lives for is still there but in a more retro, 80s way with Vaccarello. I love all three designers. They all create such cool pieces that I’d just love to wear.

For this collection, I seen a lot of embellishments and I got serious rock’n’roll vibes which is always welcome. I’ve found myself becoming increasingly inspired by rock bands like the Rolling Stones and Blondie. I think the key to longevity in the music business (besides good music, of course) is creating an iconic look. Both of the aforementioned bands have done that. I’d have hair like Debbie Harry if I could work out how to stop it from snapping off. Honestly, I can’t believe this collection is nearly ten years old because I know that if it had been marched down the runway this past season it would’ve gotten a lot of love. I’m surprised that the cool girls of Instagram (Bella Hadid, Kendall Jenner etc.) haven’t started wearing mid 2000s Balmain yet. I don’t think Decarnin necessarily gets the credit he deserves for the trends that he started and for the revival of the Balmain brand overall.

Here are my favourite looks:

I really want this at some point in life

Snejana!!

 

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