Fashion, Fashion Week, Opinion, Shows

Fashion Month – Fall 2017

I’ve been really terrible at blogging for the entire month of February. I have a zillion drafts saved with various titles about events that happened throughout the month, yet I have no desire to write about them now because it’s just too late. Like, aren’t we all over New York Fashion Week? Hasn’t the shock of Riccardo Tisci’s Givenchy departure worn off? I feel like instead of typing out my thoughts on these events, I’ve discussed them in person, either with my friends or in school. That being said, I’ve kept a long-running note on my Macbook with various observations that I’ve made throughout fashion month so instead of breaking my posts up by city, I’m just going to put it all in one post in a rambling post. I hope you enjoy!

NEW YORK

Ok, so the exciting thing about New York Fashion Week was the fact that Raf Simons was back. Even though he had only been gone for such a small period of time, it seemed like an eternity in fashion when everything moves so quickly and a few seasons feels like 4 years. I personally liked his debut ready-to-wear collection for Calvin Klein, especially the transparent plastic over the trench coats (reminded me of the Doom Generation which I was obsessed with when I was fifteen) and the heavy focus on outerwear. However, I can see that the #mycalvins will be a thing of the past and that sucks but the¬†Moonlight cast underwear ads are incredible so we’re all good. Alexander Wang was another show that I really liked, especially these two looks (a¬†and b), and the venue was cool. The long leather coats at¬†The Row were super cool. I loved this suit at¬†Jason Wu. A theme I noticed throughout NYFW was grey blazers, in some form of check. This made me mad at myself because I used to own the most perfect vintage Ralph Lauren one a few years ago but I gave it to charity because I rarely wore it. Big mistake. I normally love¬†Area’s lookbooks but they moved to a show format this season which was kind of sad actually but it does show growth for the brand. I’m obsessed with this coat from¬†Proenza Schouler. Anything that combines vinyl-looking leather and fur/shearing, I’m onboard with.¬†Narciso Rodriguez’s¬†collection was very much how I wish I dressed on a day-to-day basis.

Alexander Wang

LONDON

By the time London Fashion Week rolled around, I was in LA. During that time I barely touched my phone for social media or email purposes. I just used the Maps app for directions.

MILAN

I didn’t like the runway at Gucci because I think it was too distracting for the actual showgoers, plus there were too many looks. The¬†standout ones were a, b, and c¬†– I’m so happy about the return of snakeskin boots. The colors at¬†Max Mara were perfect. Honestly everything about that show just looked so good. The styling was sublime. I was so into the red boots at¬†Fendi. I want a pair already, it was an instant sale (if only I could afford them). This coat at¬†Prada is to die for. The dry-cleaning theme at¬†Moschino was hilarious, they even put a wire hanger in the model’s hair.

Prada

PARIS

This dress at¬†Jacquemus¬†is so beautiful, it reminded me of vintage Chanel with a twist. This brand has the best IG. I love the new¬†Saint Laurent, even if it’s just 80s redone. I’m so desperate for a pair of the logo earrings. From this collection I loved the sparkling mini dresses (a and b), the latter of the pair being a better version of the one I wore on New Years. Surprisingly I found myself liking a lot of looks at¬†Off-White. I say surprisingly because although I like Virgil Abloh and admire his work ethic, I have never been the biggest fan of his clothes. However, this collection was interesting to me, even though it was entitled “Nothing New” I thought it was different for him. I want to wear this look,¬†but I also like a, b, and c. This coat at¬†Mugler was 80s power shoulders to the max and I thought it was so fun.¬†Balenciaga was actually interesting to me. Normally I’m not a big fan of Demna Gvasalia but this collection was great, particularly a, b, and c. It was sad to see a¬†Givenchy collection without Riccardo Tisci (I wasn’t ready for his departure to be a real thing) but I do like how they directly referenced pieces from his tenure. It was a nice tribute.¬†Louis Vuitton rented out the Louvre for the show and honestly this is an instance where the design¬†standard matched the location. I loved it. In particular, a¬†and¬†b.

Off-White

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Fashion Week

Paris Fashion Week – Spring 2017

As I write this, fashion month has just ended. I can’t believe it is over already and I am slightly disappointed at myself for not keeping up to date. I’m just a little bit confused right now and am trying to work out what I actually want to do with myself in terms of a career. I always thought buying but now I’m starting to wonder about other options and if I’d enjoy them more. That, coupled with the fact that I’ve been super busy, is why I’ve been falling so behind this month.

The biggest story to come out of Paris was the Kim Kardashian armed robbery. Very fucked up and totally not ok. Regardless of what went down (inside job, 2 men vs 5 men), it was still an awful incident and I can only imagine how terrifying and traumatic it was. This has overshadowed fashion week, in my opinion.

Anyway, continuing with my lazy girl format of posts this season, I’m going to highlight my favourite looks from the shows. Next season I promise to do better!

Yohji Yamamoto

Yohji Yamamoto

Fenty X Puma

Fenty X Puma

Rochas

Rochas

Rochas

Rochas

Maison Margiela

Maison Margiela

Maison Margiela

Maison Margiela

Y/Project

Y/Project

Christian Dior

Christian Dior

Christian Dior

Christian Dior

Chalayan

Chalayan

Paco Rabanne

Paco Rabanne

Chanel

Chanel

Chanel

Chanel

Chanel

Chanel

Chanel

Chanel

Chanel

Chanel

Valentino

Valentino

Nina Ricci

Nina Ricci

Balenciaga

Balenciaga

Celine

Celine

Celine

Celine

Celine

Celine

Givenchy

Givenchy

Givenchy

Givenchy

Givenchy

Givenchy

Balmain

Balmain

Off-White

Off-White

Off-White

Off-White

Christian WIjnants

Christian WIjnants

Oliver Theyskens

Oliver Theyskens

Yves Saint Laurent

Yves Saint Laurent

Yves Saint Laurent

Yves Saint Laurent

Yves Saint Laurent

Yves Saint Laurent

Miu Miu

Miu Miu

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton

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Fashion Week

Milan Fashion Week Highlights – Spring 2017

The same as with London, I am almost a week late in writing this post. I really have no excuses other than life has gotten in the way. I feel slightly disillusioned at the moment. I don’t know if it is because I’m now going to fashion school or if it’s because I’m living in New York and am exposed to this kind of thing on a daily basis, but fashion doesn’t excite me the same way that it normally does. Or more so fashion week doesn’t excite me. I’m sick of seeing images on Instagram and videos on Snapchat the second the show is done (and often during) and I’m even sicker of seeing the same damn celebrity models all the time (although Bella Hadid is truly an 11/10). I love the accessibility of fashion and without the internet I know I would be a complete outsider, but I feel like it is also backfiring a little bit as the change is constant and too quick and I often struggle to pay attention to everything that is happening and all the looks that are shown. When was the last time you seen something truly groundbreaking?

Anyway, I’m just going to post a few of my favourite looks from Milan and hopefully by the time Paris is over I’ll have something a little bit more constructive and meaningful to say. I’m just in a little bit of a funk right now unfortunately.

Alberta Ferretti

Alberta Ferretti

Jil Sander

Jil Sander

Jil Sander

Jil Sander

La Perla

La Perla

Dolce & Gabbana

Dolce & Gabbana

Marni

Marni

Ermanno Scervino

Ermanno Scervino

Blumarine

Blumarine

Bottega Veneta

Bottega Veneta

Bottega Veneta

Bottega Veneta

Versace

Versace

Moschino

Moschino

Ports 1961

Ports 1961

Neil Barrett

Neil Barrett

Max Mara

Max Mara

Francesco Scognamiglio

Francesco Scognamiglio

Francesco Scognamiglio

Francesco Scognamiglio

And¬†a show that I’m completely obsessed with: Prada!

Prada

Prada

Prada

Prada

Prada

Prada

Prada

Prada

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Fashion, Fashion Week

London Fashion Week Highlights – Spring 2017

As life has gotten in the way once again, I’m going to keep this post about London rather brief. Honestly, I have struggled to keep up to date with fashion week this season. We are just about to begin Paris today and the only shows that I’ve seen from Milan have been via Instagram. I really need to sit down and just catch up but I keep finding other things to do. I guess I knew I was going to be busy living in New York (it is the city that never sleeps) but I don’t think I realised quite how busy I would be. I’m not complaining though, life is so much more fun now.

I feel like the whole see-now, buy-now concept has taken over from the actual clothes at fashion week. Most of the hype I’ve seen has been around this idea instead of the actual fashion, but perhaps that is because we are at a rather stagnant period right now. I’m not sure if anything too crazy has been shown throughout fashion month yet but I definitely haven’t heard about anything too out there.

Anyway, see some picks from London below:

Daks

Daks

Julien MacDonald

Julien MacDonald

Julien MacDonald

Julien MacDonald

 

 

Barbara Casasola

Barbara Casasola

Barbara Casasola

Barbara Casasola

J.W. Anderson

J.W. Anderson

Simone Rocha

Simone Rocha

Gareth Pugh

Gareth Pugh

Gareth Pugh

Gareth Pugh

 

Mary Katrantzou

Mary Katrantzou

Christopher Kane

Christopher Kane

Christopher Kane

Christopher Kane

David Koma

David Koma

David Koma

David Koma

 

 

 

 

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Fashion Week

New York Fashion Week Highlights – Spring 2017

It has been a crazy few weeks. This is one of the first posts that I’m actually writing in New York since I arrived here. For a quick update, I moved around 4 weeks ago now. I lived in dorms for two weeks then I decided to move out on my own and here I am in my own apartment now. Truly living the dream.¬†Anyhow, I missed fashion week sign up because I was apartment hunting then signing a lease. I’m a little bit disappointed that I had to keep up to date with things just via the internet instead of being there to experience it myself, but hey there’s always fashion week again in February. FIT is great though as they help you get involved in a variety of shows. I have friends who did the Tommy Hilfiger rehearsal show and got to walk the runway to help them time the music and rides to the marks hit by the models. It sounded super cool.

It is very strange because this is the first time that I’ve ever been in the same city as fashion week when it was actually happening yet I felt very disconnected from it. The only show I streamed was Alexander Wang, I barely looked at the Vogue Runway app, and I even scrolled past a bunch of images on Instagram. I was very distracted with other things unfortunately. However, I’ve had a look through literally every collection available on Vogue Runway (I always have an urge to type style.com here) and here are my thoughts.

Brandon Maxwell

It is strange to think that a year ago Brandon Maxwell was just Lady Gaga’s stylist. He has come so far in such a short time. Think of all of the celebrities who have worn his designs recently: for example, Naomi Campbell at the VMAs (she wore two different looks). I really like what he does. His designs are slightly old Hollywood but feel modern. He uses all of my favourite fabrics (you know I die for silk and satin), he picks colours that I would pick, and he chooses shapes and silhouettes that I love. Basically, I think we have a similar aesthetic. It is nice to know that there’s another designer at fashion week whose show I can look forward to seeing. This season my favourite look would have to be the black pant suit with the silk, plunging top underneath. Super sexy. I also loved the second look, the white dress with the tiered, flouncy skirt.

Sally LaPointe

As I’ve said a million times on here before, I love Sally LaPointe. I want to dress like her woman. In fact, a lot of the time I already do. Her designs speak to me and I feel like they are made for me, which is what I’m always looking for when it comes to fashion week. I want to see pieces that feel very me. This season she did a lot of cool embellishments with beading and feathers, plus she had some cool corsetry that wasn’t too extreme for me to feel intimidated by. The only thing I didn’t like was the lace up pants but that’s something I’ve always hated, not just by her. I also liked how there was a little bit more daywear in this collection. For example, the floaty shorts that she showed in a few colourways could be worn during the day more casually, with a cotton t-shirt, or in the evening paired with the embellished tops as shown in the show. The look with the cropped khaki pants and the sheer blouse would also work during the day. Overall, a great collection from one of my true favourites. I hope her brand continues to grow.

Alexander Wang

As always, I livestreamed the Alexander Wang show. One day I’ll be there I hope but for now the livestream is almost as exciting. There was a lot of cool lingerie inspired pieces, hidden details like the floral linings on skirts, a fun soundtrack, and the afterparty looked dope. I didn’t like the neons but loved the lace up details, even though they weren’t entirely new. The surplice necklines were also appreciated as the whole robe style is my favourite look. I cannot count the amount of tops and dresses I own with this look because it looks sexy, even if you have small boobs. Once again Wang produced a commercial, sellable collection and that’s what I like about his brand. It’s accessible but still exclusive in a way. You feel cool wearing it.

Dion Lee

As soon as I spotted¬†this collection I knew I had to mention it. It was one of the few collections this fashion week that stopped me scrolling and made me really look at it. Let me start this off by saying I have never seen any Dion Lee clothes in store so I have no idea what it really looks like. Based off the runway images, it is cool. However, I’d like to make an effort to see some in person so I’m going to research some New York based stockists. The first thing that struck me was the colours of the four opening looks. Beige. My favourite neutral. Couple the colour with another element that I love, belts, and I knew we were onto a winner.

And the rest…

As always, I adored Altuzarra, especially the snakeskin shirt dress. He also managed to make gingham look sexy once again. Only Joseph Altuzarra.

I loved¬†Wes Gordon‘s lookbook. It was cool seeing places that I’ve actually been used as the locations for the shots. Also, the clothes were super pretty and very me. I can see myself in a lot of the pieces, unmodified, and that’s rather rare when it comes to “fashion week” clothing.

Narciso Rodriguez¬†is a brand that I don’t think gets nearly enough hype. Every single season he produces a collection of beautiful, streamlined, wearable pieces that I can imagine a lot of people wearing. I’d love to know how well the line sells as I can imagine it being the unassuming kind of designer goods that wealthy people actually buy. This silver fluid slip is to die for.

This J Mendel dress deserves a red carpet moment. 

I would love this dress (or the Zara copy, let’s be honest) from Carolina Herrera because it makes me think of something Grace Kelly would’ve worn back in the 50s. Very Hitchcock but less restrictive. I love anything¬†with a matching belt.

I expect to see this Proenza Schouler look on many magazines covers/in editorials next Spring. It’s very striking.

I found a few items in the Yeezy show kinda cool, but I think that may be because I was still on a high from his concert when I seen the show images. I stood in line for an hour for a t-shirt. I sipped the Kool-Aid.

I am obsessed with these two dresses (i & ii) from Brock Collection. No furs this season but still a collection that I enjoyed.

Hellessy’s¬†interpretation of the off-the-shoulder trend was the best I’ve seen.

Area always have the coolest lookbooks. I think it’s the lighting that does it. I don’t even need a show from them because their lookbooks highlight the product even more effectively I think.

I really liked Oscar de la Renta this season then I found out that it was the designers from Monse who did the show. It all makes sense now, especially given that when I seen Monse my initial thoughts were favourite show so far. It is definitely a brand to keep an eye on over the coming seasons.

Jonathan Saunders’ first collection for¬†Diane von Furstenberg¬†was interesting. I found the shapes more youthful than usual. It was cool but still DVF. I especially liked the two tone wrap dress with the toffee and the black and white stripes. Very cool.

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Fashion Week

Paris Fashion Week Highlights – Fall 2016

I love Paris. I love the mix of designers you get here plus the historic houses which continue to create. There were a couple of houses without set designers this season (Dior and Lanvin mainly, both with varying results) and another couple where designers who recently started their appointment are still finding their feet and giving the brand their own personal touch. Let me start this off by saying that I’m not going to discuss either Vetements or Balenciaga in any detail. I am not interested. I used to be such a Balenciaga fan under both Ghesquiere and Wang but for now I am done with the brand. I’ll wait to see the clothes actually on the streets before I say anything else.

Besides the aforementioned, there were many shows that I liked. This season I’ve found myself picking out a few pieces from each collection or a handful of looks that I think are strong/something I’d buy/super cool instead of looking at entire collections overall. I’m not sure if this is good or bad. For the whole season there has probably been less than 10 shows that I’ve thought of as the entire collection instead of just a few¬†looks¬†that I like.¬†

Givenchy

Honestly, I adore Riccardo Tisci. If you know anything about me, you’ll hopefully know that. Every season he makes clothes that I would want to buy and wear. For the most part, our aesthetics align. This season there was a bunch of different prints including snakeskin and leopard. I’ve actually seen a lot of leopard print coats over the past couple of seasons and I’ve been wanting one for a good few months. This show¬†made me realise that come fall I will need one. (My favourite is still the Alexander Wang pre-fall one, however.) The collection was actually very cohesive. Inspired by Egypt, Tisci made a beautiful collection without being too literal in his references. I cannot wait to see how the ads are styled!

Christian Dior

This is the first ready-to-wear collection produced by the in-house design team since Raf Simons’ departure. The couture collection was panned but I think this one deserves a little more praise. I actually thought it stayed very true to the brand’s core principals and original designs. That is also a reason that people aren’t liking the collection (too safe). However, I thought there were a lot of beautiful pieces with a classic Dior silhouette. Realistically, the Dior customer is hella rich and not gaudy. These kind of clothes appeal to her, even if they don’t push the boat out creatively. My favourite looks were the fur-lapelled coat worn by Kendall Jenner and the dusky lavender coat of a similar style.

Chanel

I have a method of looking at a Chanel collection. The first step is to look over all of the thumbnails on Vogue Runway and open the ones that catch my eye in a new tab. The next step is to look through the entire gallery and zoom in on pieces. If I still like them, I’ll open the tab again. Usually this leaves me with a zillion tabs open so small that my browser is about to crash. If I have doubles, I know that I like the look. It sounds like a tedious process but I’ve found that it’s the only way I can actually observe a Chanel collection because there’s always so much going on. Doing it this way means that I find pieces that I might gloss over if just giving it a once over; only occasionally do I actually watch the show in motion. This season I found the set was pared back but the clothes were not. There were cool uses of tweed (a bomber-type jacket for one), lots of pearls (a Chanel staple), and also many accessories which I thought were fantastic such as hats and mini bags. The Boy bag has to be the most popular Chanel style at the moment so it only makes sense that there were many imaginings of it on the runway. The floaty black dress with the gold embellishments towards the end was my favourite piece in the entire collection and one that I’d like to see in the campaign images.

And the rest…

This shearling cape at Maison Margiela was a fun twist on a classic aviator jacket.

I don’t think anyone was really ready to see another Lanvin show yet. I found it very 80s and many of the looks made me think of what American socialites would buy from the Parisian couture shows back then. I actually liked this dress even though it was slightly like a bed sheet. Also, this fur coat was cool.

These two looks (i & ii) at¬†Dries Van Noten were very nice and I’d actually have styled them together with the coat open. It may have taken away from the impact on the runway but I can imagine that this is how people would actually wear it. There could’ve been a great supermodel-style runway moment where they took off the coat and swung it over their shoulders.

At Guy Laroche I liked this embroidered jacket.

You can count on Chloe for lightweight, flowy dresses. I feel like these can be worn in any season (with tights in the winter and bare legged in the summer). This time around I particularly liked this mustard offering with soft ruffles.

I used to be such an Olivier Rousteing fangirl but I’ve started to tire of¬†Balmain. I think overexposure has done it. Looks are becoming so repetitive as well. However, there were still quite a few pieces that I liked (just not enough to make the show a favourite) such as this beautiful navy blouse with ruffles¬†and this embellished top and skirt.

I’m slightly late on the whole patterned bomber jacket trend but I really like this one at Emanuel Ungaro. Given that they’re being shown on the catwalk again this season, I think it is a trend that is here to stay. I’ve seen a cool one at Zara that I like and if that fails I think I’ll look to a vintage store.

I really liked the colour palette at¬†Akris,¬†so warm and definitely autumn appropriate. Also, you can get a dress with a similar print to this one¬†at Mango just now for ¬£49.99¬†(if you’re interested in a runway-esque look for less).

The proportions of this coat at¬†Acne Studios¬†is cool. I also like the boots that it is paired with. I’m currently loving a lighter sole paired with black boots.

I am obsessed with this check dress at¬†Isabel Marant.¬†I’ll be interested to see how much this retails for because I want to buy it.

I liked the Rick Owens show a lot more this season than normal. The clothes were oversized and flowy but not so big that they drowned the models. Plus, the show was less gimmicky. See the full collection here.

I want to wear this entire look from Paco Rabanne. 

Valentino¬†was so pretty but I’m sick to death of the shitty casting.

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Fashion Week

Milan Fashion Week Highlights – Fall 2016

As with London, I’m a little late in writing this for Milan. I have been so busy over the past week or so that I haven’t had the time to even think about fashion week. I see a constant stream of images on Instagram so I know what has been going on but I’m not totally in the loop. It doesn’t help that I just started my Netflix free trial and have become hooked on Suits.¬†Anyway, on to fashion week:

Prada

Firstly, I liked the sailor hats. They were a fun touch and I can definitely imagine some girls wearing them. I’m not sure if any of you have watched her videos but there’s a Youtuber named Sammi Quinn who I think would definitely wear one and look great whilst doing so. Apart from that, I had to dissect every look piece by piece. I find that’s what I have to do with Prada’s shows to see anything in them. The runway looks are always too much at once for me and I need to imagine what the clothes would be like on a rack. For that reason, I loved the coats with the fur trims, especially the leather one pictured above and the hybrid fur sleeve deal (I love the mix of fabrics, just like Sally LaPointe’s fur sleeved sweaters). I also really liked the printed shirts (one is worn in the look with the aforementioned coat) and the patterned long coats. Overall, lots of pieces that I’d buy if I were rich and needing a lot of new, non-basic clothes. It was just a really good collection.

Versace

I really loved the colour scheme at Versace. The black, blues, and salmon pink was fun and pulled the collection together. The knit jumper worn by Natasha Poly stood out to me because it was just so un-Versace in my mind, yet it worked. Outerwear is my favourite type of clothing, both to look at and to shop for and I think there were a few coats in this collection worth a second look – namely the navy with leather lapels worn by Adriana Lima and the bright pink one worn by Imaan Hammam (I adore her). The accessories were strong in this collection as well. Versace is not a brand I’d ever think of for a handbag but perhaps I should open my mind a bit more.

Agnona

To be completely honest, I don’t know very much about this brand. I clicked on the thumbnail because I liked the look of it and ended up liking almost every look in the collection. I am all about elevated basics. I’m here for practicality. I know that can sound terribly boring but I’d rather splurge on something I know I can wear for years to come than a trend piece that you’re better off buying at Topshop. The soft, slightly muted colours were divine and the clothes all looked very soft and feminine. Some looks played with proportions, for example the red look pictured above with the wide sleeves, whereas others were tight and cinched in at the waist. I don’t know about you but I can see a lot of pieces that could be a lot of use to me. That’s what excites me about fashion. Clothes are made to be worn!

Jil Sander

Another collection that I suppose fits in with the minimalist movement. I think you’re either in one camp or another. Maximalists will have enjoyed Gucci, Minimalists will enjoy Jil Sander, some people love both. The white coat with the black buttons reminded me of a doctors outfit but cooler, hence why I liked that. The collection had quite a cool, oversized vibe to it and I love that. I once read about how costume designers used to give Joan Crawford shoulder pads because her shoulders were naturally wide and this collection made me think of that story. She was not afraid to make herself boxier and in the Kardashian, body-con era that we are now in, I think it’s important to remember that slouchy and oversized is fine too. Honestly, I wear both.

And the rest…

I loved the furs at Blumarine, especially the blue oversized one that was the opening look and the long brown one later on.

The embellishments on this golden dress at¬†Ermanno Scervino¬†were so beautiful. I want to see Selena Gomez in this. Also, is that a mini cross body bag or part of the dress? I haven’t managed to see a video yet to see it in motion.

As usual, it was the coats that I liked at Max Mara. This time I especially liked the colour-blocked one and the herringbone one with the matching top.

Turquoise and peach was a colour scheme that ran through the Fendi show, similar to that of Versace. I loved how elegant Julia Nobis looks in this look and how cool Imaan Hammam looks here (I love the stole). However, if I were to buy anything from the collection it would definitely be this coat with a furry collar and trimmings.

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Fashion Week

London Fashion Week Highlights – Fall 2016

I’m looking at all the London shows a little bit late. I fell behind on New York and spent so long doing other things that I didn’t catch up until 2 days in to London. If I can’t keep up and I’m not even there, how on earth do people manage the entire month in person? Madness.

London is a week that I don’t mind not paying full attention to because I don’t have any of my favourite designers showing there. I quite often see looks that I like or pieces but not full collections. I find it more difficult to list entire collections like I usually do with the other three cities, hence why the “And the rest…” list is a lot longer. I suggest clicking through the links if you’re interested. It’s just straight to the shots from Vogue Runway. I find it easier to link it that way than to include every single image or this post would never end! There’s not a brand that shows in London that particularly resonates with me and makes me want to wear the clothes every day, apart from perhaps Barbara Casasola. However, I am often surprised with what I like in London. It’s not as predictable as other fashion weeks.

Gareth Pugh

As of the 21st, Gareth Pugh is the only show that has made me stop and pay attention. I’m so impressed by the entire collection. It struck me as a mix of Alexander McQueen, Edith Head’s costumes for Hitchcock’s films, and Dior’s New Look. The shoulders were exaggerated, the waists were waspy, and the construction was superb. Everything looked so expensive, minus the star spangled pants. I want the Prince of Wales check (or is it houndstooth?) skirt suit, very retro and 1950s. He brought the drama to London that just reminded me of McQueen’s take on glamour.

Barbara Casasola 

As I said before, Barbara Casasola is one of the brands in London that I actually truly like, although I’ve never actually seen any of her clothes in person. Just looking at the designer taking her bow, she looks so chic in a minimal, effortless way. I think that’s the entire aesthetic of her brand. The overall vibe of this collection reminded me of early Prada or 90s Helmut Lang (the colour palette particularly). It was very undone, relaxed, I-rushed-out-the-door-in-the-morning, and I think it worked.

Alexander McQueen

I can truly say I love Sarah Burton’s collection. This is the first one that she has designed that I’ve been 100% sold on. There was leather, there was fur, there were embellishments aplenty, and to top it all off, most of the clothes were wearable. You can imagine that most of the pieces will be retailed without too many modifications which is nice considering often what you see on the McQueen runway is miles from what you see in stores. There were some pieces that I felt were slightly Riccardo Tisci (who cares, I adore him anyway) but overall I really thought it was a strong collection. It was slightly whimsical and romantic yet tough¬†and cool. The juxtaposition of the metal hardware and the tulle was fun. It will be sad if the rumours about Burton’s departure are true (I personally don’t think they are, but what do I know?) but if they are at least she will go out on such a high.

And the rest…

I’m glad that¬†David Koma’s clothes are beginning to get more attention. Celebrities are wearing his stuff, often Kardashian-Jenners but that exposure is valuable. This season I loved this dress¬†(he does a mini so well) and this coat. Outerwear is not what I expect from him but I really liked it.

The snakeskin trench coat at¬†Burberry was fun (I’m always for a trench coat).

I love these two (i & ii) looks at¬†Christopher Kane,¬†an art print on clothing pokes fun at the question “is fashion art?”.

The final look at J. JS Lee was strong, as were the coats.

Felder Felder plays up to my glam rock needs. This collection was slightly Hedi for Saint Laurent but I still liked many elements of it. For example, the blue print on the crinkled skirt and also the fingerless gloves Рsome of the best wear them like Karl Lagerfeld & Madonna.

I wish they’d styled this look at Eudon Choi without the shirt underneath. I love a knit-on-knit look.

I liked this dress at Julian Macdonald but it looks almost identical to a design of his that Kourtney Kardashian wore a month or so ago. I found the rest of the collection a little derivative of himself, Versace, and Roberto Cavalli.

This coat¬†at¬†Topshop Unique looked so cosy, although I wish they’d fully lined it in fur instead of quilting.

Knitwear is what Pringle of Scotland is known for. This season I liked this dress (spaghetti strap dresses are always useful for layering, especially on top of a thinner sweater) and this coat in particular.

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Fashion Week

New York Fashion Week Highlights – Fall 2016

It is fashion month again, can you believe it? I am constantly filled with the desire for something new, a thirst that cannot be quenched, and the speed of fashion doesn’t help this. It has me feeling the need to buy new things all the time. The new season¬†has rolled around so quickly this time. I think because there has been so much talk of changing the fashion calendar with a few¬†designers not even showing this season. Instead they are choosing to wait until September to show their fall collections, in time for them going into stores. I shared a post about this concept a couple of months ago when it was just theoretical but now the changes are beginning to take shape. I can only wonder how much longer the current system will last, if more designers will shift to the new way, and how the new way will work out for retailers and press alike.

As always, New York comes first. It has got me very excited to think that next time it is Fashion Week in the city, I’ll also be there. Maybe I can volunteer? Or just awkwardly hang around outside the venue? What do people even do about that? Anyway, I’ll continue writing about this season in¬†the format that I’ve been doing for a few years now (see the Fashion Week tab in the header). I’ll try not to discuss the things that I didn’t like because that seems like a waste of time. Let us begin!

Alexander Wang

I am on such an Alexander Wang high at the moment, it’s getting dangerous. All I want to do is buy his clothes. I want to be a part of the badass, downtown cool that I am so far from. This season was no different. Firstly, I will be getting myself a pair of the slogan tights, no matter what. I found them fun. I also smirked both when I seen the mohair coat with the marijuana leaf print and also the pole dancer motif. Only Alexander Wang could show these and make people actually want them. Moving on from that, his edgier take on the classic tweed suit, made famous by Chanel, was actually fun. The leather and metal hardware added a fun twist, and this combined with the shorter skirt length made it something that a young person would actually want to wear. My favourite look of the entire show, however, was the pleated black dress with the leather accents.¬†Also, honourable mention to the studded booties. I thought I was so done with studs but I found myself in love with these.

Sally LaPointe

Sally is my favourite young designer. Her brand is so young – Spring 2013 was her first season – yet I think she knows exactly who her woman is and what they’d like to wear. There’s a touch of fur, some cosy knitwear, and some draped, often asymmetrical skirts and dresses. And it’s fairly expensive. Sally makes the kind of clothes that I want to wear. I feel that you could create an entire wardrobe with her clothes, a little bit of Rosetta Getty, and some more pieces from The Row – a cosy, capsule wardrobe. I think these brands have slightly similar aesthetics and would work well with each other. As usual, I am wild for the fur sweaters: surely they’re the best-selling piece. I also loved the added glitz in this collection and the feathers. I am so for feathers.

Altuzarra

If there’s a designer who I can count on to make clothes that I love every single season, it’s Joseph Altuzarra. I think his brand is my current favourite because in each collection I see so many pieces that I want to incorporate into my own wardrobe. I find his way of dressing women inspiring. Where Alexander Wang plays up to my cool fantasies, Altuzarra plays up to my sexy fantasies. I’m neither of the aforementioned adjectives but I feel like if I wore Altuzarra I wouldn’t feel like a fraud. In fact, maybe it would give me the confidence to¬†be¬†sexy. I think a skirt of his needs to be my next big purchase. As usual, in this collection there were slits-a-plenty, with thigh bearing skirts and dresses. However, the skin was contrasted with cosy knits and shearling jackets. The collection was more pattern-heavy than I expected but I think the more delicate ones worked best, like the tiny little flowers on this coat. I’m not a fan of paisley but I think it worked in many pieces here, especially since Lou Lou de la Falaise was cited as an inspiration – the print is synonymous with her in my mind.

The Row

Trust Mary Kate and Ashley to turn out yet another brilliant collection for their brand. They have transcended the label of celebrity designer because they have been consistently good at making truly luxurious clothes that people want to buy, and believe me their pieces would be considered a splurge for most of us. I wonder exactly how much involvement they have with the brand on a day-to-day basis, especially as they have¬†Elizabeth + James as well, a brand known for its fun furs. I loved the minimalism in this collection as it shows that it doesn’t have to mean boring. There were discreet but interesting details on many of the pieces, like the fact that from afar this dress looked like it was fringed but it was in fact ruched. I’m also obsessed with this coat,¬†a classic piece worth the investment.

And the rest…

Christian Siriano had some nice dresses and braided knitwear. I actually really liked the one-sleeved dresses which surprised me because I’ve always thought that style was so ridiculous.

ZAC Zac Posen¬†had a fun deer print which I loved, although there wasn’t much of it in the lookbook. However, he showed more of the collection on his Instagram, along with debuting a I heart Zac sweater which I would like, I must admit. For his mainline show,¬†Zac Posen¬†gained a lot of attention for his stellar, diverse model casting. It is sad that it has to be a big talking point when a designer actually used models of colour in their show, however. In this collection there were very few pieces that I’d have identified as traditional Zac Posen – where’s the ball gowns? – but I adored the lighter-weight, black dresses with many layers like these ones (a, b, c).

I found myself really liking¬†Brock Collection again, although I’d like to know more about the brand. What is their price point? Who is their customer? I did like the whole deformalisation of fur because I love incorportating fur into casual¬†looks. For example, I loved this furry, almost dressing gown paired with denim. Anything belted and cosy looking is for me.

Gigi Hadid looked really good in the opening look at Tommy Hilfiger.

Both¬†Protagonist¬†and¬†Trademark are making clothes which I’d actually want to wear and buy. This is one of my favourite things about New York designers, they don’t shy away from the everyday.

I loved the almost liquid slips¬†and the ruffles at¬†Cushnie et Ochs, a brand that I do look forward to seeing each season. Although satin is a fabric they often use, I found that it didn’t photograph brilliantly this season, looking slightly too shiny in some shots. I think some of the blouses will look better in person. I’m predicting a red carpet moment for this gown and this one too. Edit – I wrote this before Selena wore the dress to the Grammy’s (and kiiiiilled it!).

Jason Wu¬†produced another quintessential Jason Wu collection: beautiful and expensive looking clothes for ladies with beautiful and expensive taste. I loved the looks with the feathers, so glam. I’ll take this dress for the evening and then combine these two (i & ii) for an elevated everyday look.

Ryan Roche made another collection of beautiful, cosy knitwear Рher speciality Рwhich are perfect for the chilly temperatures in New York.

This Marchesa dress is screaming to be worn at the Oscars.

I loved the curves at Boss, particularly in this look.

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Fashion, Fashion Week, Shows

Paris Fashion Week Highlights – Spring 2016

Can you believe that fashion month is over? I feel like it has gone simultaneously too fast and too slow. There’s some shows which I’ve been desperate to see for weeks and now that I’ve finally seen them I feel relieved. On the other hand, everything is a blur. I remember New York, I remember a few shows in Milan, I don’t remember London at all, and now we have Paris.

I’ve learned a couple of things this fashion month:

  1. The insta-girls don’t bother me. I don’t care that they’re only being used for their social media following. If they look good in the clothes that’s all that matters. I now follow Gigi Hadid and enjoy looking at her posts, even if they do give me extreme hair envy. I like her sister too.
  2. I am open to colour. I know that sounds really ridiculous, but for the past at least two years I’ve stuck to a palette of neutrals. That sounds so boring but I just did. For a while it was literally just black and denim. Now that I’m seeing some beautiful shades of pink and orange on the runways I want to wear them myself – take this beautiful watermelon at Alexis Mabille as a perfect example. I suppose you’ve got to look more vibrant in the summertime!
  3. Ruffles are destined to stay.
  4. Alexander Wang seems like oodles of fun. His final walk (or should I say hop-skip-and-jump) at Balenciaga was so playful and funny. I love when people are genuinely excited to do what they do.
  5. And finally, Paris is always a good idea. (But we knew that already, right?)

VIONNET

Vionnet is a historic house is often forgotten about when you think of the big names –¬†Dior, Lanvin, Jean Patou, Chanel – and the reason for this is that they haven’t had¬†a “big name” designer at the helm. That is until now, as Hussein Chalayan has been added to the team. He already designed their demi-couture as of the beginning of 2014, but now he also works on the ready-to-wear. The house itself has been bought by different owners a few times over the years. Madame¬†Vionnet¬†is the designer who was famed for the bias cut, a new body-clinging shape, that changed fashion in the 1920s, and that John Galliano reintroduced in the 90s. I think this collection was perhaps prettier than any that Elie Saab has ever done. There was a good mix of floaty and form-fitting gowns, and the show was full of red carpet looks that I cannot wait to see come awards season. There were some looks where I thought “that could be Balmain” or “that could be Saab”, but all of them had a slight edge which separated them from other designers. Soft and ethereal sum it up.

CHANEL

Of course this is a predictable entry on my list, but how could you fail to include it? Just when I thought Raf had the best set of fashion month at Dior, Karl did the airport terminal. Now an airport is perhaps my least favourite place to be – I only like duty free shopping and that’s all – but Karl made the mundane¬†interesting. I thought it was funny how this was the second to last day of fashion month and flying home was probably the first thing on everybody’s mind – Karl, you tease! As always, there were a gazillion looks, many of which were repetitive, but you know that’s what the Chanel customer wants – a version which will suit her (and you have to remember that the customers are of all ages). I felt a bit overwhelmed when I first seen the collection because there was just so much, so many patterns, so many different fabrics but when I looked at each outfit individually I found elements which I really liked (not in every look but often there was a nice top with ugly trousers and vice versa). I really look forward to the Chanel pre-fall show and the film which will accompany it.

CHRISTIAN DIOR

Watching Dior and I¬†gave me a real appreciation for Raf Simons that I didn’t really have before. Ever since, I’ve enjoyed seeing his collections. The set of this show was similar to his original couture set (the walls of flowers), except he took it a step further and built the entire dome out of it – I seen the most incredible gif-set on Tumblr of the set getting made up. I enjoyed seeing lots of simple daywear and, of course, beautifully tailored jackets, most with a nipped in waist reminiscent of the bar jacket but softer. There were some interesting, almost bubbled shoulders on jumpers and tops and sweet scalloped hems. Nothing revolutionary, no, but does all fashion need to change the world or should it simply¬†clothe us?

And the rest…

I loved the rings and hoops on the skirts and dresses at Anthony Vaccarello. They somehow managed to avoid looking Pretty Woman-esque. The show got progressively better as it went on. The looks with the jeans were the best, in my opinion, and Camille Hurel looked insanely stunning wearing them. As terrible as it sounds, I hope Zara copy this collection.

This season’s collection was the first Galliano for Maison Margiela that I’ve thoroughly enjoyed. I know there’s only been a few but I didn’t adore the rest. I liked the little touches of leopard print on the collars and there was a beautiful bodice on this navy top (it reminds me of something from medieval times, but in a wearable manner). The commercial pieces seemed to be at the start of the show with it becoming progressively less sellable, more collectors items by the end.

I find it quite sad that Kim Kardashian’s lack of attendance at Balmain was so widely commented on – she does not make the show. Once again, another collection by Olivier full of the silhouettes that he is working hard to make his own. You can tell when something is Balmain now, thanks to the huge social media presence of the brand on celebrities. I loved the cross over tops that have been prominent for the past couple of seasons, like this one or this one. The ruffled skirts were a little too flamenco for my liking. Judging by the hype around Balmain as a brand, the H&M collaboration will be a fast sell-out.

Mary Kate and Ashley certainly have a clear vision of their woman at The Row. I really do like the brand but I sometimes feel that there’s just too much fabric and the model is drowning in it. However, I loved these two looks – x, and the suit on the left, y.

The water-soluble paper dresses at Chalayan were insane. He knows how to create a memorable moment. This is one that will go down in history, just like his table dress from 2000. The moment is best enjoyed in video. A lot of the collection was rather nice too (lots of wearable pieces) but I think this just took the entire focus.

I thought this outfit at Paco Rabanne was cool. The trousers are marbled so subtly that upon first glance you might not even notice.

Alexander Fury best described Celine in his review for The Independent.¬†He said it was “utility” in the sense that Philo was interested in making clothes that had a function in daily life. I don’t think I can say it any better because that’s exactly what it was. I adore this coat with the randomly placed buttons¬†and also this jacket (I don’t think the full runway look would work in real life.

Martin Grant had great minimalist, clean shapes but there were some interesting twists. For example, the piping on this coat, the brushstroke/animal print pattern on this skirt, and the glittery feathers on this coat. I can imagine a lot of this collection will be in Harvey Nichols come spring.

I liked the ruffles on this one dress at Lanvin. I think they were done in a way that didn’t make them seem uber-girly, if that’s possible.

The fur stoles at Miu Miu are something I hope catch on, but maybe for the cold weather until April as opposed to in a summer collection (if they haven’t already). I hope to find an emerald green one soon.

Sarah Burton’s Alexander McQueen has never been my favourite show in Paris, but I did like quite a few looks from this collection. For one, I loved the jeans – something that you’d never expect in her show. Paired with the denim wedges and this insane top, this was my favourite look.

The scuba look of this skirt and top combo at Nina Ricci reminded me of the deceptive double-faced jersey at Prada last season, as did the colour. However, I liked the look and I think the top would be a good one to have in your wardrobe as it could be dressed up or down.

I really loved the exaggerated full skirts at Maison Rabih Kayrouz, with my favourite looks being this beautiful black dress (seriously black-tie party worthy, not that I’m invited to events like that) and this strappier but not dissimilar dress.

The Hermes collection was almost exactly how I’d like to dress. I think the review on style.com says more about it than I ever could.

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