Editorial, Fashion

Bella Hadid for Vogue Italia – June 2017

I love this cover. The colors, the font, the styling, the prop – everything works. Vogue Italia’s new EIC Emanuele Farneti has been at the helm of the publication for a mere matter of months but already the direction of the magazine has started to change. Since his tenure began, the covers have been fun, with attention to typography and colors. His first cover, the e-commerce themed spread which I felt was a fun take on the future of fashion, and this cover (his fourth) are my favorites so far. I’m excited to see the rest of the editorial when it is released.

  • Photography– Inez & Vinoodh
  • Styling – Alex White
  • Model – Bella Hadid
  • Art Direction – Giovanni Bianco
  • Hair – Ward
  • Makeup – Wendy Rowe
  • Set Design – Jill Nichols
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Editorial, Fashion

“Starker Vereinigt: Stronger United” in Blush Magazine – Spring 2017

My friend and I worked together on this editorial (which got cut down, unfortunately) and article for Blush Magazine at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT for short). It took inspiration from Berlin street style, the fashion collective GmbH, and the whole postmodernism movement that has taken place. The article discusses this in much more detail.

I decided to put together a little video with some further background on the brand plus some outtakes and behind the scenes clips from the day of the shoot. See below some grainy scans of the actual spread. In due time I will update this once the online edition of the magazine is available as a pdf so you can read it clearer. Until then, pick up a free issue if you’re on campus and get in touch with Blush Magazine on Instagram if you can’t get your hands on a copy!

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Editorial, Fashion

EDITORIAL: Natalie Westling in T Magazine “Cross Fit Fashion”

I found myself inspired by this editorial in the March 26th 2017 issue of T Magazine featuring one of my favorite models, Natalie Westling, shot by Craig McDean. I really loved the simplicity of this editorial as I think it allowed the impeccable styling to really shine on its own. The prop of the motorbike in the background wasn’t a distraction and I think the images are so much more effective against a solid background as opposed to being shot on a street scene or any other outdoor setting. Marie-Amelie Sauve picked out great pieces to feature and made Natalie into the ultimate cool girl. Honestly, I think that she embodies this persona 100% because I think it is just who she is in her personal life and it’s so believable. I love that about her.  Sometimes models are made to behave a certain way in images to get the look that the stylist or photographer envisioned and it can seem phony if it is too far from who they really are. However, in this shoot I am convinced. Also, I think she looks especially beautiful in these images as her facial features seem more defined than before, with her cheekbones looking more contoured than I remembered.

See the full editorial below:

This outfit is my favorite from the shoot

 

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Editorial, Fashion, Opinion

Vogue Italia’s e-Commerce cover reflects the future of fashion

Vogue Italia’s first cover under their new editor-in-chief, Emanuele Farneti, is here and it focuses on e-commerce. It’s almost satire, bringing to light the rise of the internet and the decline of brick and mortar stores in today’s modern world. It’s interesting and I appreciate the social commentary, even if it’s put forward in a humorous, light way. Shot by Steven Meisel and styled by Karl Templer, the issue is on sale now.

Vogue Italia as a magazine is always at the forefront of what is happening culturally, sometimes in an insensitive way (as critics said after the cover alluding to the BP oil spill in August 2010). The aforementioned cover featured Kristen McMenamy lying on a dirty beach, covered in oil and surrounded by rocks and sea-debris. At the time, the magazine and the photographer, Steven Meisel, caught heat for what was interpreted as mocking the Gulf Sea spill which devastated marine wildlife. The current cover, whilst not controversial in the same way, could still be interpreted as social commentary.

Almost once a week an email pops up in my inbox, telling me about the latest retailer to go into administration. The profile is generally this: American, mall-brand, no longer in favor with millennials, poor e-commerce. Think about it, staple stores where Americans went throughout their childhoods are now disappearing rapidly. Analysts speculate that Sears and K-Mart will be gone by the end of this year as well. Why is it happening? To bring it down to the most basic of levels, the rise of e-commerce and the decline of mall culture.

Quite simply, kids don’t hang out in shopping malls anymore. That’s not a cool thing to do. Teen movies of the 80s and 90s almost always featured a scene in a shopping mall – Mallrats, Clueless, Fast Times at Ridgemont High – yet nowadays they’re not so prominent. Teens don’t want to all dress the same anymore. Individuality, or perceived individuality more so, is key. Thrifting is cool, fast-fashion is cool (although there is a sub-set of teens who are ethically opposed to fast-fashion retailers and its harmful effect, but they still make up the minority of consumers); mall brands are not cool. Abercrombie & Fitch, perhaps the king of teen clothing throughout the noughties, has undertaken an entire repositioning approach in order to recapture the millennial customer that was once their core shopper but has defected to other brands. In an attempt to do this they have changed their product offering (removed visible branding, used higher quality materials, gone with more design-led basics) and tried to overhaul their stores. While the brand is still struggling, they are managing. Many teen retailers have met a different fate. In the past year, stores closing down entirely include American Apparel (unrelated to the rise of e-commerce, internal politics killed this brand), BCBG, Wet Seal, and The Limited. Other huge stores like JC Penney and Macy’s are closing doors around the country. To summarize, brick and mortar stores are not doing well.

E-commerce, on the other hand, is only getting stronger. We may think that e-commerce sales make up the majority of revenue for brands as it can certainly seem that way, but really it is only around 10% of sales in the US. However, the e-commerce sector as a whole is growing, around 6% in 2016. E-commerce is a sector that I would prefer to work in, purely because the growth is exciting. E-commerce is the future. Some companies that do it perfectly are Moda Operandi and FarFetch.

Moda Operandi is a New York-based e-tailer, launched in 2010, that allows customers to order looks straight from the runway. It works on a pre-order basis, with customers buying their items straight after the runway shows and receiving them at the beginning of the delivery season. It is a way to guarantee that you get the piece you’ve seen before it sells out and also gives the customer that adrenaline rush that fuels fashion purchases. You have it, it is yours, but you have to wait. The company also holds online trunk shows which run for a limited time only where you pay a deposit on the item and pay the rest later. When I first came across the site I was immediately intrigued and honestly I still think it is one of the most exciting companies in fashion today. They have since expanded into having personal shopping consultants where you can try on pieces in person before pre-ordering. They also offer a “Boutique” service which has current season items as well, for those who simply cannot wait. There was talk about what would happen to them given the whole see-now, buy-now culture of fashion and the new system which is currently being trialled, but honestly I think they will succeed.

FarFetch is a wholly different enterprise. Started in 2008, the brand is now valued at over $1 billion USD. They began as a way to bring different fashion boutiques from around the world together under one united e-commerce site, giving benefits to both the boutiques and the consumers: consumers have greater choice, boutiques have greater distribution. It was another cool concept. The site has almost every designer brand you can think of, from luxury brands like Givenchy and Saint Laurent (categorized under Luxe) to younger, emerging designers like Protagonist and Sally Lapointe (classed as Lab). If you can’t find something on FarFetch, you’re probably not going to find it anywhere. Saying this, you’d think the site would be overwhelming due to the volume of products but you can filter things down so much that you can find anything you’re looking for. To make things better, in my opinion, the company has just been joined by Natalie Massenet, founder of Net-a-Porter, as their non-executive chairman. I personally think Natalie Massenet is one of the most interesting figures in the fashion industry, purely because her business acumen is incredible. She built one of the first huge, and still leading, luxury e-commerce sites in a time where e-commerce was a no-go for high end brands, and now every designer has their own e-commerce site or at least some outlet for online distribution. I’m interested to see what her role will consist of at FarFetch, given that she used to lead one of their competitors, but left her own company in 2015, shortly before it was bought by Yoox.

Finally, an honorable mention in the e-commerce category goes to Matches Fashion, a London based retailer which began as a small boutique in Wimbledon and grew into one of the most prominent luxury e-commerce sites. British Vogue did a great profile on the owners, Ruth and Tom Chapman, in their most recent issue that I encourage you to read if you get the chance.

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Editorial, Fashion

Best of 2016 – Vogue Editorials

I look forward to writing this post every year because it is an excuse for me to trawl through the internet looking for images that I find inspiring. I trust Vogue’s all around the world to create stellar content that both inspire and evoke other emotions in me. I love a good fashion editorial. I wish that I could be paid to create them and that I had the resources to do so.

What makes a good editorial? To me, the model. I have to like the model and find her appealing or else I won’t enjoy the images, even if the styling is good. I also think the photographer is important as there are some whose style I don’t particularly like and others who I am taken by. Finally, the fashion editor helps immensely. Without their vision the editorial wouldn’t exist. I love how fashion is such a collaborative creative process. All of the people involved are needed.

Anyway, as per usual I’m reviewing British Vogue, American Vogue, Italian Vogue, and Vogue Paris in this post. Enjoy!

British Vogue

563126-800wFirst Light

Photographer – Tyrone Lebon, Stylist – Francesca Burns, Models – Frederikke Sofie & Damaris Goddrie

See full editorial here. 

460844-800wGet In Line

Photographer – Alasdair McLellan, Stylist – Kate Phelan, Model – Anna Ewers

See full editorial here. 

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As Time Goes By

Photographer – Mario Testino, Stylist – Lucinda Chambers, Model – Erin O’Connor (various)

American Vogue

Ready Set Gala

Photographer – Theo Wenner, Stylist – Sara Moonves, Models – Lily Aldridge & Emily Ratajkowski

See full editorial here.

Major General

Photographer – Mikael Jansson, Stylist – Tabitha Simmons, Models – Edie Campbell & Grace Hartzel

See full editorial here.

Drop Everything

Photographer – Alasdair McLellan, Stylist – Tonne Goodman/Michael Philouze, Model – Imaan Hammam

Vogue Italia 

Note: Since writing this the much loved Editor-in-Chief Franca Sozzani passed away at just 66 after a year long battle with an illness. This came as such a shock to me as I had no idea she was unwell. It was very sad news. In the days after her death you could truly see the admiration and love for her from the fashion community as a whole which was really beautiful. Rest in peace.

In the Mood for Lightness

Photographer – Paolo Roversi, Stylist – Jacob K, Models – Estella Boersma, Amalie Moosgaard, Cecilie Moosgaard, Julie Hoomans, Odette Pavlova, Peyton Knight & Roos Abels

See full editorial here.

Valentino

Photographer – Sarah Moon, Stylist – Patti Wilson, Model – Molly Bair

See full editorial here.

Freja Beha Erichsen

Photographer – Peter Lindbergh, Stylist – Clare Richardson, Model – Freja Beha Erichsen

See full editorial here.

Vogue Paris

Back to Black

Photographer – Claudia Knoepfel, Stylist – Veronique Didry, Models – Grace Elizabeth & Mathilde Brok Brandi

See full editorial here.

Mes Nuits Sont Plus Belles Que Vos Jours 

Photographer – Mert & Marcus, Stylist – Emmanuelle Alt, Models – Irina Shayk & Steffy Argelich

See full editorial here.

Oh! You Pretty Things

Photographer – Mert & Marcus, Stylist – Emmanuelle Alt, Models – Bella Hadid, Taylor Hill, Jena Goldsack

See full editorial here.

 

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Editorial, Fashion

American Vogue, December 2016 – “Drop Everything”

In the oversaturated world of Instagram, it is hard for an image to make a real lasting impression. However, when I seen the series of images shared by Imaan Hammam from her December 2016 American Vogue shoot, I immediately stopped. Maybe I should back up a little bit. First of all, Imaan is probably my favourite model of the moment. She is stunning and works hard, plus seems like a nice, non-bitchy person. I follow her on both Snapchat and Instagram so I see a lot of her daily, but the images that she shared from the shoot are different than normal.

Styled by Tonne Goodman, the shoot has a slightly retro vibe (probably down to the hair and make-up, which, by the way, is flawless) and is just all around goals. It is what I love to see from a Vogue shoot. They went out on location, they shot a zillion good looks (yes, the clothes are actually nice and don’t all just look like head-to-toe runway looks), and the output was good. I know that when I get this magazine in the mail I will probably keep it just because of this editorial.

Photographer – Alasdair McLellan, Stylist – Tonne Goodman/Michael Philouze, Model – Imaan Hammam


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Editorial, Fashion

Vogue Japan – December 2016

I adore this Vogue Japan/Nippon cover of Gigi Hadid, shot by Luigi & Iango and styled by Anna Dello Russo. The slightly blurred effect in her face plus the make-up reminded me of an 80s supermodel, the true generation. This could be Christy Turlington or Linda Evangelista to me and that’s a big statement for me to make given the fact that they are in a whole other stratosphere than Gigi and her peers.

I’m slowly coming around to the Hadid’s, more so Bella than Gigi. I do think Bella is truly stunning (even if she’s had work done) and she actually seems like a really cool girl. I can imagine myself being friends with her more than I can Gigi somehow. Bella has good style for sure. Gigi does seem like a nice girl though and I can’t grudge her success. I think it’s easy to down on the Kardashians and the Hadids and the Baldwins and all of the famous-for-being-famous models or Instagirls but it’s also a sign of the times. You can’t be bitter because of change. I do miss the older generation of models and I preferred it when social media didn’t determine if a model would become successful or not because it definitely can overshadow talent. Modelling was something I used to be super passionate about (not myself personally but watching other people’s careers grow). I used to scour the new faces boards of agencies online and try to predict who would make it. I chose Anna Ewers, yay!

Anyway, I really love this cover and I’ll buy it if I ever see it. The editorial accompanying it (entitled My Princess) was nice too. Gigi is very pouty and it gives me real Irina Shayk vibes. The styling is also a little bit more subdued than Anna Dello Russo normally does which surprised me a little bit. It was slightly Carine in my eyes. I really adored it to be honest. I’ll include the editorial below:

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Editorial, Fashion

The September Issues 2016

Now that we are finally in September, I’m going to showcase my personal favourites from fashion publications all around the globe. I decided to wait until August was over so I could look at all of the magazines that came out and judge them all instead of posting prematurely when we were still waiting on images being released. For example, Vogue Italia doesn’t come out until the very end of the month. Anyway, see this year’s picks below:

1 – W Magazine

Rihanna for W Magazine

Rihanna for W Magazine – Alternative Cover

Photographer: Steven Klein

Stylist: Edward Enninful

Make Up: Pat McGrath

This is badass. As soon as I seen it I was obsessed. I think I actually commented on Edward Enninful’s Instagram (and I never comment on famous people). So incredible. The lighting, the jewels, the regal pose. Rihanna is a better model than half of the models working today. She is truly an icon.

2 – Harper’s Bazaar USA

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Kimye for Harper’s Bazaar

Photographer: Karl Lagerfeld

Stylist: Carine Roitfeld

Normally I hate Kimye as a couple, but recently I have come around to them. I actually don’t mind Kim anymore. She seems sweet. She won my support by sticking up for her husband against Taylor Swift. I always thought that Kanye just wanted to mould Kim into her perfect little doll and I found it odd but I think there is probably more to their relationship than that. Plus, they have the cutest kids. And finally, the interview is funny. That can excuse the lack of actual fashion on the cover (like, there is literally no jewellery even, how is this ok with the advertisers?).

3 – Vogue Australia

Selena Gomez for Vogue Australia

Photographer: Emma Summerton

Stylist: Sally Lyndley

I’m loving Selena Gomez in Louis Vuitton. I think her style evolution should be commended. I like the colours on this cover and I definitely think it will stand out amongst all of the other magazines on the shelf.

4 – InStyle USA

Kerry Washington for InStyle

Photographer: Thomas Whiteside

This cover has actually received quite a few negative comments online but I like it. For one, the font is great (very Woody Allen). Visually, the cover is so pretty and soft and the lipstick looks great. Plus it’s Kerry Washington and I love her.

5 – Vogue Russia

Irina Shayk for Vogue Russia

Photographer: Mert & Marcus

I actually think this is the hottest photo I’ve ever seen; Irina Shayk has undeniable sex appeal. The colourful masthead tones the cover down in a way, and I think that may be necessary. Plus, her hair looks amazing. I really like this.

 

And the rest…

I didn’t really like the cover of Vogue Paris but the editorial that accompanied it was actually very beautiful. Both Taylor Hill & Bella Hadid are stunning models. Also, I really liked the Back to Black editorial.

I didn’t hate the actual cover image of American Vogue but I didn’t like the casting, nor did I like the tagline used. I’m so bored of the whole focus being on social media (the same goes for VP’s Instagram Generation line). The jacket on the cover was pretty cool but I didn’t find the cover impressive. My pick would’ve been Winona Ryder. She’s beautiful, mature (and more appropriately aged given the actual readership of the magazine), and once again relevant due to Stranger Things on Netflix.

I was hoping for more from Vogue Italia, purely because I waited so long to see the cover. I’m not sure what I would’ve preferred but I just didn’t like the cover image. It isn’t something I’d stop and look at on the newsstand.

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Editorial

Photographers I Currently Like – Part 2

As a follow-up to my earlier post about photographers I’m now going to showcase some of the lesser known, more upcoming photographers in fashion. Some of them have been working for years and are now being featured in bigger fashion publications like Vogue (the big 4 instead of smaller international editions) and others work mainly with indie magazines. For me, a common thread between all of the people mentioned is that they take photos that I think are worth looking at instead of just flicking past in the magazine – that is super important to me.

We live in a world that is so over saturated with images. You probably see hundreds of different ones every day on adverts, on various social media channels (especially Snapchat), in magazines. To actually take a photo that makes someone stop and have a second look instead of just quickly scrolling down to the next thing or flicking the page until something else jumps out is a skill. How an image comes together cannot be fully credited to the photographer, however. The model, stylist, entire glam team, art directors, and the whole team in the background is partially responsible too. In this post I am just pointing out the photographers though. See the rest of my picks below:

Sante D’Orazio

CR Girls – CR Fashion Book Spring/Summer 2016

See full editorial here.

Tyrone Lebon

First Light – British Vogue February 2016

See full editorial here.

Zee Nunes

Runaways – Vogue Brasil August 2015

See full editorial here.

Naomi Campbell cover – Vogue Brasil May 2016

Janneke Van Der Hagen

Trip Tease – CR Fashion Book Spring/Summer 2016

See full editorial here.

Vera by Janneke – Numero China December 2015

See full editorial here.

 

 

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Editorial, Fashion

Vogue Italia July 2016 Cover

 

I am beyond obsessed with the July cover of Vogue Italia featuring Italian model Vittoria Ceretti in a very Marilyn in The Misfits style wig and a punchy cover line, “So you want glamour?”. Yes, we always want glamour and Steven Meisel has delivered once again.

This cover feels like stepping back into the mid-2000s in the best way possible. It was a time when Vogue Italia had knockout images cover-after-cover-after-cover. This is one of the most beautiful photographs I have seen in a long time. I am definitely buying this issue, 100%.

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