I recently watched The Director: An Evolution in Three Acts on Netflix. It profiles Frida Giannini creating a collection for Gucci, the brand which she became Creative Director of in 2006 and stepped down from in January 2015. I’ve always been a fan of her designs. I think she created a strong brand image for Gucci and her red carpet designs were always some of the best. On top of that, she came across as a smart woman who didn’t seem out of touch with her employees. I was disappointed when she was dismissed, especially since her final few collections were so strong in my opinion (and perhaps some of the most copied on the high street and by lower-price designers).
I feel there is a split between Team Frida & Team Alessandro, referring to Alessandro Michele, the current Creative Director who took over and has completely rewritten the codes of Gucci. The fashion world is obsessed with the new Gucci but I haven’t yet bought the hype. The nerdy, librarian brand of chic just doesn’t appeal to me.
This particular collection is actually Frida’s second for the brand, although I did love quite a few looks from her first collection and I might do a separate post about it at some point in the future. She was promoted from within, similar to Michele, from Accessories Director to Creative Director following a collection of bags and scarves based on the classic Gucci Flora logo. Her Gucci was very different to the uber sexy, largely monochrome image projected by Tom Ford in the years before. There was another designer who stepped in for two seasons between Ford and Giannini but I’d say Giannini marked a big change in the house.
I like the David Bowie inspiration behind the show. I think his influence is incredible and it is always interesting to see how it spans. I understand why so many people were devastated when he died because so many people were affected by what he did, whether that be his music or his outfits. This particular collection was so glam, slightly excessive, and almost theatrical. Satin was used liberally and these looks struck me as the ultimate going out gear. Also, I love spotting the models in mid 2000s shows. They are my favourite era of models thus far, perhaps because these were some of the models that I seen growing up. Granted Natasha Poly and Snejana Onopka were never household names like Naomi Campbell and co of the 80s, but if you were interested in fashion you’d at least know their faces.