I love Paris. I love the mix of designers you get here plus the historic houses which continue to create. There were a couple of houses without set designers this season (Dior and Lanvin mainly, both with varying results) and another couple where designers who recently started their appointment are still finding their feet and giving the brand their own personal touch. Let me start this off by saying that I’m not going to discuss either Vetements or Balenciaga in any detail. I am not interested. I used to be such a Balenciaga fan under both Ghesquiere and Wang but for now I am done with the brand. I’ll wait to see the clothes actually on the streets before I say anything else.
Besides the aforementioned, there were many shows that I liked. This season I’ve found myself picking out a few pieces from each collection or a handful of looks that I think are strong/something I’d buy/super cool instead of looking at entire collections overall. I’m not sure if this is good or bad. For the whole season there has probably been less than 10 shows that I’ve thought of as the entire collection instead of just a few looks that I like.
Honestly, I adore Riccardo Tisci. If you know anything about me, you’ll hopefully know that. Every season he makes clothes that I would want to buy and wear. For the most part, our aesthetics align. This season there was a bunch of different prints including snakeskin and leopard. I’ve actually seen a lot of leopard print coats over the past couple of seasons and I’ve been wanting one for a good few months. This show made me realise that come fall I will need one. (My favourite is still the Alexander Wang pre-fall one, however.) The collection was actually very cohesive. Inspired by Egypt, Tisci made a beautiful collection without being too literal in his references. I cannot wait to see how the ads are styled!
This is the first ready-to-wear collection produced by the in-house design team since Raf Simons’ departure. The couture collection was panned but I think this one deserves a little more praise. I actually thought it stayed very true to the brand’s core principals and original designs. That is also a reason that people aren’t liking the collection (too safe). However, I thought there were a lot of beautiful pieces with a classic Dior silhouette. Realistically, the Dior customer is hella rich and not gaudy. These kind of clothes appeal to her, even if they don’t push the boat out creatively. My favourite looks were the fur-lapelled coat worn by Kendall Jenner and the dusky lavender coat of a similar style.
I have a method of looking at a Chanel collection. The first step is to look over all of the thumbnails on Vogue Runway and open the ones that catch my eye in a new tab. The next step is to look through the entire gallery and zoom in on pieces. If I still like them, I’ll open the tab again. Usually this leaves me with a zillion tabs open so small that my browser is about to crash. If I have doubles, I know that I like the look. It sounds like a tedious process but I’ve found that it’s the only way I can actually observe a Chanel collection because there’s always so much going on. Doing it this way means that I find pieces that I might gloss over if just giving it a once over; only occasionally do I actually watch the show in motion. This season I found the set was pared back but the clothes were not. There were cool uses of tweed (a bomber-type jacket for one), lots of pearls (a Chanel staple), and also many accessories which I thought were fantastic such as hats and mini bags. The Boy bag has to be the most popular Chanel style at the moment so it only makes sense that there were many imaginings of it on the runway. The floaty black dress with the gold embellishments towards the end was my favourite piece in the entire collection and one that I’d like to see in the campaign images.
And the rest…
This shearling cape at Maison Margiela was a fun twist on a classic aviator jacket.
I don’t think anyone was really ready to see another Lanvin show yet. I found it very 80s and many of the looks made me think of what American socialites would buy from the Parisian couture shows back then. I actually liked this dress even though it was slightly like a bed sheet. Also, this fur coat was cool.
These two looks (i & ii) at Dries Van Noten were very nice and I’d actually have styled them together with the coat open. It may have taken away from the impact on the runway but I can imagine that this is how people would actually wear it. There could’ve been a great supermodel-style runway moment where they took off the coat and swung it over their shoulders.
At Guy Laroche I liked this embroidered jacket.
You can count on Chloe for lightweight, flowy dresses. I feel like these can be worn in any season (with tights in the winter and bare legged in the summer). This time around I particularly liked this mustard offering with soft ruffles.
I used to be such an Olivier Rousteing fangirl but I’ve started to tire of Balmain. I think overexposure has done it. Looks are becoming so repetitive as well. However, there were still quite a few pieces that I liked (just not enough to make the show a favourite) such as this beautiful navy blouse with ruffles and this embellished top and skirt.
I’m slightly late on the whole patterned bomber jacket trend but I really like this one at Emanuel Ungaro. Given that they’re being shown on the catwalk again this season, I think it is a trend that is here to stay. I’ve seen a cool one at Zara that I like and if that fails I think I’ll look to a vintage store.
I really liked the colour palette at Akris, so warm and definitely autumn appropriate. Also, you can get a dress with a similar print to this one at Mango just now for £49.99 (if you’re interested in a runway-esque look for less).
The proportions of this coat at Acne Studios is cool. I also like the boots that it is paired with. I’m currently loving a lighter sole paired with black boots.
I am obsessed with this check dress at Isabel Marant. I’ll be interested to see how much this retails for because I want to buy it.
I liked the Rick Owens show a lot more this season than normal. The clothes were oversized and flowy but not so big that they drowned the models. Plus, the show was less gimmicky. See the full collection here.
I want to wear this entire look from Paco Rabanne.
Valentino was so pretty but I’m sick to death of the shitty casting.