I’m looking at all the London shows a little bit late. I fell behind on New York and spent so long doing other things that I didn’t catch up until 2 days in to London. If I can’t keep up and I’m not even there, how on earth do people manage the entire month in person? Madness.
London is a week that I don’t mind not paying full attention to because I don’t have any of my favourite designers showing there. I quite often see looks that I like or pieces but not full collections. I find it more difficult to list entire collections like I usually do with the other three cities, hence why the “And the rest…” list is a lot longer. I suggest clicking through the links if you’re interested. It’s just straight to the shots from Vogue Runway. I find it easier to link it that way than to include every single image or this post would never end! There’s not a brand that shows in London that particularly resonates with me and makes me want to wear the clothes every day, apart from perhaps Barbara Casasola. However, I am often surprised with what I like in London. It’s not as predictable as other fashion weeks.
As of the 21st, Gareth Pugh is the only show that has made me stop and pay attention. I’m so impressed by the entire collection. It struck me as a mix of Alexander McQueen, Edith Head’s costumes for Hitchcock’s films, and Dior’s New Look. The shoulders were exaggerated, the waists were waspy, and the construction was superb. Everything looked so expensive, minus the star spangled pants. I want the Prince of Wales check (or is it houndstooth?) skirt suit, very retro and 1950s. He brought the drama to London that just reminded me of McQueen’s take on glamour.
As I said before, Barbara Casasola is one of the brands in London that I actually truly like, although I’ve never actually seen any of her clothes in person. Just looking at the designer taking her bow, she looks so chic in a minimal, effortless way. I think that’s the entire aesthetic of her brand. The overall vibe of this collection reminded me of early Prada or 90s Helmut Lang (the colour palette particularly). It was very undone, relaxed, I-rushed-out-the-door-in-the-morning, and I think it worked.
I can truly say I love Sarah Burton’s collection. This is the first one that she has designed that I’ve been 100% sold on. There was leather, there was fur, there were embellishments aplenty, and to top it all off, most of the clothes were wearable. You can imagine that most of the pieces will be retailed without too many modifications which is nice considering often what you see on the McQueen runway is miles from what you see in stores. There were some pieces that I felt were slightly Riccardo Tisci (who cares, I adore him anyway) but overall I really thought it was a strong collection. It was slightly whimsical and romantic yet tough and cool. The juxtaposition of the metal hardware and the tulle was fun. It will be sad if the rumours about Burton’s departure are true (I personally don’t think they are, but what do I know?) but if they are at least she will go out on such a high.
And the rest…
I’m glad that David Koma’s clothes are beginning to get more attention. Celebrities are wearing his stuff, often Kardashian-Jenners but that exposure is valuable. This season I loved this dress (he does a mini so well) and this coat. Outerwear is not what I expect from him but I really liked it.
The snakeskin trench coat at Burberry was fun (I’m always for a trench coat).
Felder Felder plays up to my glam rock needs. This collection was slightly Hedi for Saint Laurent but I still liked many elements of it. For example, the blue print on the crinkled skirt and also the fingerless gloves – some of the best wear them like Karl Lagerfeld & Madonna.
I wish they’d styled this look at Eudon Choi without the shirt underneath. I love a knit-on-knit look.
I liked this dress at Julian Macdonald but it looks almost identical to a design of his that Kourtney Kardashian wore a month or so ago. I found the rest of the collection a little derivative of himself, Versace, and Roberto Cavalli.
This coat at Topshop Unique looked so cosy, although I wish they’d fully lined it in fur instead of quilting.
Knitwear is what Pringle of Scotland is known for. This season I liked this dress (spaghetti strap dresses are always useful for layering, especially on top of a thinner sweater) and this coat in particular.