It is fashion month again, can you believe it? I am constantly filled with the desire for something new, a thirst that cannot be quenched, and the speed of fashion doesn’t help this. It has me feeling the need to buy new things all the time. The new season has rolled around so quickly this time. I think because there has been so much talk of changing the fashion calendar with a few designers not even showing this season. Instead they are choosing to wait until September to show their fall collections, in time for them going into stores. I shared a post about this concept a couple of months ago when it was just theoretical but now the changes are beginning to take shape. I can only wonder how much longer the current system will last, if more designers will shift to the new way, and how the new way will work out for retailers and press alike.
As always, New York comes first. It has got me very excited to think that next time it is Fashion Week in the city, I’ll also be there. Maybe I can volunteer? Or just awkwardly hang around outside the venue? What do people even do about that? Anyway, I’ll continue writing about this season in the format that I’ve been doing for a few years now (see the Fashion Week tab in the header). I’ll try not to discuss the things that I didn’t like because that seems like a waste of time. Let us begin!
I am on such an Alexander Wang high at the moment, it’s getting dangerous. All I want to do is buy his clothes. I want to be a part of the badass, downtown cool that I am so far from. This season was no different. Firstly, I will be getting myself a pair of the slogan tights, no matter what. I found them fun. I also smirked both when I seen the mohair coat with the marijuana leaf print and also the pole dancer motif. Only Alexander Wang could show these and make people actually want them. Moving on from that, his edgier take on the classic tweed suit, made famous by Chanel, was actually fun. The leather and metal hardware added a fun twist, and this combined with the shorter skirt length made it something that a young person would actually want to wear. My favourite look of the entire show, however, was the pleated black dress with the leather accents. Also, honourable mention to the studded booties. I thought I was so done with studs but I found myself in love with these.
Sally is my favourite young designer. Her brand is so young – Spring 2013 was her first season – yet I think she knows exactly who her woman is and what they’d like to wear. There’s a touch of fur, some cosy knitwear, and some draped, often asymmetrical skirts and dresses. And it’s fairly expensive. Sally makes the kind of clothes that I want to wear. I feel that you could create an entire wardrobe with her clothes, a little bit of Rosetta Getty, and some more pieces from The Row – a cosy, capsule wardrobe. I think these brands have slightly similar aesthetics and would work well with each other. As usual, I am wild for the fur sweaters: surely they’re the best-selling piece. I also loved the added glitz in this collection and the feathers. I am so for feathers.
If there’s a designer who I can count on to make clothes that I love every single season, it’s Joseph Altuzarra. I think his brand is my current favourite because in each collection I see so many pieces that I want to incorporate into my own wardrobe. I find his way of dressing women inspiring. Where Alexander Wang plays up to my cool fantasies, Altuzarra plays up to my sexy fantasies. I’m neither of the aforementioned adjectives but I feel like if I wore Altuzarra I wouldn’t feel like a fraud. In fact, maybe it would give me the confidence to be sexy. I think a skirt of his needs to be my next big purchase. As usual, in this collection there were slits-a-plenty, with thigh bearing skirts and dresses. However, the skin was contrasted with cosy knits and shearling jackets. The collection was more pattern-heavy than I expected but I think the more delicate ones worked best, like the tiny little flowers on this coat. I’m not a fan of paisley but I think it worked in many pieces here, especially since Lou Lou de la Falaise was cited as an inspiration – the print is synonymous with her in my mind.
Trust Mary Kate and Ashley to turn out yet another brilliant collection for their brand. They have transcended the label of celebrity designer because they have been consistently good at making truly luxurious clothes that people want to buy, and believe me their pieces would be considered a splurge for most of us. I wonder exactly how much involvement they have with the brand on a day-to-day basis, especially as they have Elizabeth + James as well, a brand known for its fun furs. I loved the minimalism in this collection as it shows that it doesn’t have to mean boring. There were discreet but interesting details on many of the pieces, like the fact that from afar this dress looked like it was fringed but it was in fact ruched. I’m also obsessed with this coat, a classic piece worth the investment.
And the rest…
Christian Siriano had some nice dresses and braided knitwear. I actually really liked the one-sleeved dresses which surprised me because I’ve always thought that style was so ridiculous.
ZAC Zac Posen had a fun deer print which I loved, although there wasn’t much of it in the lookbook. However, he showed more of the collection on his Instagram, along with debuting a I heart Zac sweater which I would like, I must admit. For his mainline show, Zac Posen gained a lot of attention for his stellar, diverse model casting. It is sad that it has to be a big talking point when a designer actually used models of colour in their show, however. In this collection there were very few pieces that I’d have identified as traditional Zac Posen – where’s the ball gowns? – but I adored the lighter-weight, black dresses with many layers like these ones (a, b, c).
I found myself really liking Brock Collection again, although I’d like to know more about the brand. What is their price point? Who is their customer? I did like the whole deformalisation of fur because I love incorportating fur into casual looks. For example, I loved this furry, almost dressing gown paired with denim. Anything belted and cosy looking is for me.
Gigi Hadid looked really good in the opening look at Tommy Hilfiger.
Both Protagonist and Trademark are making clothes which I’d actually want to wear and buy. This is one of my favourite things about New York designers, they don’t shy away from the everyday.
I loved the almost liquid slips and the ruffles at Cushnie et Ochs, a brand that I do look forward to seeing each season. Although satin is a fabric they often use, I found that it didn’t photograph brilliantly this season, looking slightly too shiny in some shots. I think some of the blouses will look better in person. I’m predicting a red carpet moment for this gown and this one too. Edit – I wrote this before Selena wore the dress to the Grammy’s (and kiiiiilled it!).
Jason Wu produced another quintessential Jason Wu collection: beautiful and expensive looking clothes for ladies with beautiful and expensive taste. I loved the looks with the feathers, so glam. I’ll take this dress for the evening and then combine these two (i & ii) for an elevated everyday look.
Ryan Roche made another collection of beautiful, cosy knitwear – her speciality – which are perfect for the chilly temperatures in New York.
This Marchesa dress is screaming to be worn at the Oscars.
I loved the curves at Boss, particularly in this look.