The fash-pack have reached this side of the pond, (ie. Great Britain), and we are glad to have them. London is the place in fashion where rebellion occurs. The punk movement originated on the gritty streets and the wild spirit remains there today. Dame Viv (Vivienne Westwood), an original punk, still shows here and really represents British fashion. London is also a place that is well known for welcoming and nurturing new talent. As a result of this, there are lots of young designers and new brands that present in London.
Not to be negative, but London Fashion Week is generally my least favourite of all. Don’t get me wrong, there are many shows here that I look forward to and usually really enjoy, but London’s fashion scene in general doesn’t speak to me. I don’t represent that cool experimental kid who is going to shake things up. I am all for the classics. That probably explains why Milan and Paris are my fashion weeks of choice. I considered applying to study in London (at Central Saint Martins and London College of Fashion) but ultimately decided against it. The London fashion scene doesn’t speak to me as much as others do, hence why I am planning to study elsewhere.
But let’s forget about me and focus on the fashion. There are so many brands that show in London, the calendar is packed. So instead of talking about me, let me talk about the clothes. They are what we are all here for.
Marchesa is a brand mainly known for their red-carpet wear. Countless celebrities have worn their designs to big events, including Dita Von Teese who is the person I think of when I hear the name. For this season, the brand are celebrating their 10th anniversary, which doesn’t seem like a very long time considering how well established they are. This is my favourite collection of the season so far (and I can’t imagine many others will top this). It was a flower-child, free-spirit, hippy extravaganza: a throwback to Woodstock (which realistically, none of us attended). It was pretty, romantic and a little bit rocker- basically everything I wish I were. Georgia May Jagger opened the show in a stunning tiered white dress with a floral embroidered skirt which I can only imagine will one day make a glorious wedding dress for someone (pick me! pick me!). There was lots of florals, some off-the-shoulder action and also feminine, flowing skirts (only 1 pair of trousers in the entire show, I think?). Basically, it was a beautiful collection and a brilliant way to celebrate 10 years in business.
Felder Felder are a brand that I discovered a little over a year ago (maybe the Fall 2013 season?). Basically, I am so glad that I did. They are quickly becoming one of my favourite brands that present in London, and are one that I would actually invest in pieces from. The clothes they create are ones that I want to wear, and this season that definitely applies. The supermodel Veruschka was their muse for this season and perhaps that is the reason that I liked it so much. (I am obsessed with photos of her at the moment.) It was very 60s and very cool. I am desperate to get my hands (or feet) on the brown cowboy boots worn by the models. They are from Jessie Western, a store on Portobello Road in London, and are made in Texas. I love this pair (linked). I’d say that Felder Felder is establishing itself as a brand that is not to be missed. Perhaps one day it will be one of the biggest names in London? I can only hope.
I love David Koma. I want to be a David Koma woman, and also a modern Mugler woman: he designs for both, with his first collection for Mugler showing next week. I think people worried that by taking on another brand on top of his own line, which is still relatively young, he would neglect it and the standards would deteriorate. Luckily, that has not happened. He has spun out another brilliant collection. Koma usually sticks to a very basic colour palette (which I like) – black and white. This season, he added a bit of colour which came as a bit of a shock. The opening look featured some yellow and as the show progressed some blue was added into the mix too. It was sporty and fun, with interesting asymmetrical hemlines. This dress, in particular, was eye-catching. I want it all. I’d say David Koma is one to watch, give it 10 years and he will be a well-established, big name in fashion.
Everybody knows and loves Tom Ford: that’s a fact. Last season, I kind of hated his collection. The baseball-esque sequinned dresses were awful, in my opinion, but have somehow made it into all the magazines (via editorials). However, this time around I was enchanted. I fell under Tom’s spell. His sexy aesthetic worked. He was ill, so was unavailable to explain his vision to the press. This leaves the whole collection up to our interpretation. Is that good or bad? I don’t know. I like to know a little bit of background just to contextualise things but really, I think this collection speaks for itself. It was Tom Ford doing what Tom Ford does best: sex. The Tom Ford woman is slightly dangerous, confident and alluring – a femme fatale. Think what you like about the clothes, but you cannot deny that the collection was all of those words. This season, he delivered. I can’t wait to see these pieces in editorials, they already photographed great on the runway.
Simone Rocha is another young designer who I love to support (through words, not sales sadly). I believe that she is one of the best young talents to emerge in the past five years. I usually associate her with bubblegum pink and fun colours, however, this season she went to the dark side… This wasn’t a cutesy collection, it meant business. It was all about love and romance: the way it makes you feel and how it takes over your entire being. She experimented with texture and different fabrics to evoke the feelings of love, good and bad, and the many contrasting ways that it affects you as a person. Also, there was a fur trim on many of the pieces, a little touch that I adored. She managed to do all this and still create a brilliant collection that people are bound to buy. Simone Rocha is a name that you cannot ignore.
And the rest…
I loved the hats at J.W Anderson, they made the show to be honest.
Richard Nicoll’s LED dress gathered lots of attention and really, I found the rest of the collection to be attention worthy too. I liked the general oversized, drapey feel of the collection.
Usually I’m not a fan, but this time around I liked Vivienne Westwood Red Label, until I seen the “yes” badges – after that I though fuck this and closed the tab, if you want to see photos I will not be including them, search on style.com yourself.
I liked Barbara Casasola’s show, especially the copper-coloured pleated skirt at the end.
The Kim Kardashian/Kanye West sweatshirt at Ashish was oddly hilarious: Kanye looked alright but Kim looked crazy.
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi was cool, especially this dress.
Topshop Unique didn’t really stand out to me, which is unfortunate because usually they have a few good pieces that I consider saving up for.