Milan Fashion Week normally is my favourite out of the four main offerings. There are plenty well established houses who present here and a multitude of shows that I usually look forward to (Prada, Versace, Dolce & Gabbana). Italian fashion is something I am a big lover of and I hope to visit the exhibition entitled “The Glamour of Italian Fashion” at the V&A Museum in London at some point in the coming future. When I think of Italian fashion I think of luxury, sex appeal and mystique. Of course, not all designers will live up to that ideal but usually I am not disappointed by the offerings in Milan. It is here that the whole season really kicks off for me.
Browsing on style.com and seeing Natasha Poly opening set this up to be a good collection. However, I feel it fell a little flat. Lots of good ideas that were poorly executed. Many of the pieces will probably look better styled differently and not all together as they were on the runway. Runway styling is crucial and can really make or break a collection as some pieces just don’t work together. Case in point (linked) – what could have been a good outfit ruined by the ugly jumper. I don’t like the deep v neck jumpers shown. I am also not a fan of the odd use of shearling in the hugely oversized coats. However, there were a few stand out looks. If this were not Prada, I’m guessing most people would dismiss it. Often I don’t really get Prada until I see it off the runway either in editorials or in campaigns, up until then I am usually a little lost. I therefore assume that it is the same with this collection.
Potentially the best Gucci collection in years. The 60s cool vibe made me picture Katharine Ross in half of the outfits. I have a particular liking for the pastel coloured furs and this incredible coat.
This is a “Yaaasss Gaga” moment. That felt appropriate considering Lady Gaga’s strong association with the brand as of lately. It was sexy without being trashy and ended up looking even a little classy, not a word that I would usually associate with Versace. Many of the dresses were sensual and slinky but were toughened up ever so slightly with the military style buttons. Also, at first glance I thought Sasha Luss was Donatella herself. I am also crazy in love with the coat Lindsey Wixson was wearing in this look.
I used to think I hated this brand. I thought it was tacky and ugly. In recent seasons, and in retrospect, my view has changed and I am slowly becoming a fan. The current campaign has secured my view, it is by far my favourite of the entire season. This collection itself was fun, desirable and intriguing. Many of the hems were super short and the dresses micro-mini; and they actually work. I once again love this coat which is super reminiscent of that at Versace, I blame it on the colour.
DOLCE AND GABBANA
This collection was the most different, most transformed, unlike the previous gazillion seasons’ in such a long time. In recent years, Dolce and Gabbana have been so repetitive, albeit beautiful, insanely similar to the stage that it got too dull. While it did have some Sicilian connections and was entitled “Enchanted Sicily”, the references were not overt and actually worked this time around. Much of the collection seemed just like a fairytale and quite frankly I found it magical.
And the rest…
Moschino was interesting to say the least. What else can you expect from Jeremy Scott though? Lots of Chanel knock-offs that looked like cheap copies of the originals and bizarre fast food references. Suppose he has a light hearted approach to fashion. No 21 was another fierce contender with the opening look being especially strong. Max Mara wasn’t as strong as usual.